Its lashing rain - it comes off the nearby mountains, perpetual clouds hang low as far down as the hills. The rain is soaking me, obscuring my visor and creating puddles which can hide potholes or small craters in the road. The going is slow and the road is bad, I have to stand up on the pegs from time to time to balance the bike over heaps of gravel, straw, and dung. As I approach the foothills the clouds clear a little, the road climbs and starts to wind, thankfully its smooth asphalt now. The lower slopes of the hills are visible, thick dark green jungle sloping up from a plateau of vivid green paddy fields. There is birdlife everywhere, ibis, heron and stork in the waters, peacocks and pheasant in the bushes, brahminy kites,
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