OUT OF MUMBAI INTO GOA WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 16 Coming at you from Panaji, Goa, having left Mumbai at midnight on our first train trip of the journey. Turns out the best way to master boarding at Mumbai’s grand Victoria Station is to say yes to the enquiry: “ Coolie? ”, as your taxi arrives, which our driver knew and so answered in the affirmative for us. Anyway, our man, I’ll call him our porter, shepherded us to the assembly room for 1st class AC passengers, returned once the train was ready for boarding, deciphered the reservation chart which was incomprehensible to us, took us onto the train and installed us in our double, double decker compartment, with nary a question from the officials supervising boarding. Our companions were, first, an Indian gentleman, dressed and sleeping in
... read more