We step from the MTR station onto the street and I stop to catch breath, my senses assaulted by the scene. I can see high-rise buildings festooned in a little paint and a lot of clothes hanging from every balcony. From every direction gaily-painted advertisements beg for my attention and I can smell an odd mixture of the fragrant, the exotic, the spicy, and drains. The sound of traffic and shouting is nearly drowned out by raucous birdsong. Meanwhile, I suddenly realise what 25°C and 80% humidity feels like. Its like being hot normally, so you sweat, but since you’re still the driest thing in the vicinity the moisture from the air has been condensing on you from the very beginning. It feels like a wet slap with a warm and slippery fish, but the slap
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