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Africa » Tanzania » East » Dar es Salaam January 20th 2005

It's now officially 2 weeks before I leave for Tanzania for the next seven months! It hasn't seemed very real for the last few weeks but now that I have my ticket in hand, all the details that I still have to deal with are coming through with alarming clarity! What on earth am I going to be doing in Dar es Salaam? I will be working with the Legal and Human Rights Centre, doing some research and writing, as well as helping out in any way that I can. This is my test entry... just updating on my preparations (ask if I have my passport/visa?). Hope to see you all before I leave cold Canada for nice warm Tanzania (about a 40-60 degree difference?) ... read more

Africa » Lesotho January 19th 2005

Hello and welcome to more of the African archives. Lesotho is a wonderful land of mountains and rivers. It is also a fabulous place to hike. Here is a wee snippet of a hike in Lesotho.... read more
The gorge
The river.

Africa » Gambia January 17th 2005

Gambia is one of the oddest shaped countries in the world. It is just a few kms either side of the Gambia river, surrounded on 3 sides by Senegal and the other by the sea. It has been 6 days since by last blog - in that time I have been in both Senegal and the Gambia. There have been several attempts in the past at uniting Senegal and the Gambia, which is not surprising considering the Gambia s strange geography. Some general points - the food in Senegal has been superb! I didn't come to Africa for the food, so the quality of the Senegalese cuisine has been a revelation. Also despite the groups of touts, street crime etc, in general the people are very friendly and hospitable. Since my last blog I left Dakar ... read more
Senegal
Senegal
Senegal

Africa » Ghana January 16th 2005

We left the humidity of the Jungle behind us and made for the coast. I personally could not wait...and I was not disappointed...the Gold Coast of Ghana is like a tropical paradise. We headed for Cape Coast and stopped at a few beach resorts to enquire about camping, but were unceremoniously turned away...until we arrived at The Coconut Grove Hotel where they agreed to let us camp round the back of the complex for $8 US - a complete bargain as the room rate was nearer $100 US per night. We truly felt we had arrived in paradise...palm trees as far as the eye could see, acres of golden sand and the sea was warm! The only negative was the Harmattan - the dust from the Sahara that blows over to Ghana once every year during ... read more
Neil behind bars, St Georges Castle, Elmina
Cape Coast...Paradise!
View from ramparts, St George's Castle, Elmina

Africa » Kenya » Nairobi Province » Nairobi January 15th 2005

"I love the smell of Dettol in the morning." Paul the driver stares through his shades at another bunch of raw recruits, timid and trembling at their first African dawn. Ok, so it takes a few days to adjust. The first thing you have to get used to is hygiene. Lots of dettol and no tea towel, so lots of flapping to dry plates, dishes etc. Then you need to understand how the truck and the camp runs which takes a bit of getting used to. A typical day so far: Get up at 5.30am, about an hour before dawn. Check around the tent for Lions with my headtorch. The wind rips through the campsite as we are high up on an escarpment above a large platea. Get the charcoal on the chicos (round charcoal burners) ... read more
Adrian and Claudia
Turkana chief
Nicky at the salon

Africa » Kenya » Coast Province » Mombasa January 14th 2005

Tiwi Beach Oct 27 - Nov 12 The eight hour bus ride from Nairobi to Mombassa was grueling; unsealed roads, a very bad driver, no bathroom and no food stops. Actually, there was a road-side stop to buy live chickens!? At the Mombassa bus stop, we were used as bait by the bus company owner to catch a thief who was harassing us moments before. We had to stand in a busy sidewalk and wait for him to approach again as the owner and a security guard watched from inside the terminal. Very strange indeed. Unfortunately, he didn't come back. We had no accommodation booked in the city nor at our destination of Tiwi Beach (all the phones on the beach were down for days). After our short introduction to Mombassa, we decided that to wing ... read more
Tiwi Cottage
Water Frisbee
The Security Staff

Africa » Kenya » Nairobi Province » Nairobi January 13th 2005

NAIROBI (Oct 19-20) No previous life experience could have prepared us for our arrival in Nairobi. As soon as we left the baggage claim area we were bombarded by touts trying to sell us every possible service including safari packages, accommodations, city guides, taxis, and meals. Once we found one another in the sea of touts, we fought our way through the crowd to the ‘Government Tourist Bureau’ in hopes of coordinating transportation from the airport and accommodations in the city. After a quick orientation to the highlights of Kenya and a basic language lesson, it became evident that the tourist bureau was in fact a private tour company trying to make a hard sell on a safari package, which of course was leaving early the following morning. An hour later, we managed to leave the ... read more
Big Mama and Baby
King of the Savanna
Brothers on the hunt

Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Essaouira January 11th 2005

We had a really great time in ESSAOUIRA last October . I can really reccomend this great town for a holiday . The Windsurfing is really AMAZING. The town has a great atmosphere and there is virtually NO hassle so if you are on a first time trip this is the place to be! Great Beaches , Some of the best SEAFOOD that I have ever tasted and its cheap! We were SO lucky with our accommodation - we stayed outside the town in the MOST Magical place I have ever been . Also it is great for groups of up to about 12-15 people - what fun we had! Their website is at moroccovilla ... read more
Villa Courtyard
Essaouira Beach
Unloading Fish

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Dakar January 11th 2005

I am now in Dakar, the capital of Senegal. I left Saint-Louis on Sunday morning. When getting the taxi to the Gare for Dakar, I had to bargain, one taxi driver tried to charge 3 times the going rate. At the Station they asked the going rate for the journey but tried to charge me 500 francs for the rucksack. I refused, so instead of taking a collective taxi to Dakar I ended up in a mini bus. Thinking about it I was arguing over very small amounts of money - 500 francs is 50 pence sterling. Having opted for the cheaper mini bus I then had to wait an hour for the bus to leave. They don't leave until they are full - and full means over full. The minibus would have been comfortable with ... read more
Ile de Goree
Ile de Goree
Dakar

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes January 10th 2005

I skiied Morocco on Saturday! That makes two new continents in less than 2 weeks. I left Fez on Saturday with my friend Analee (who works as an iron-age archeologist in Jordan) and we made our way up to Ifrene, the Moroccan Aspen, and then on to the ski lodge at Mischliffen by grand taxi. Clearly a colonial era legacy, Mischliffen is just 2 small hills with two rope tows and a swiss style ski lodge and hotel; but what it lacks in verticle rise it makes up for with excellent people watching and dirt cheap prices. We were the first ones there in the morning. I rented skis in the ski shop - ok actually it was just a guy with several dozen pairs of broken mismatched 80s era slalom skis tossed haphazerdly into the ... read more




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