The overnight train wasn’t quite what I was expecting. Egypt doesn’t have sleepers only reclining seats, I was comfortable enough though to sleep almost the entire way. Arriving in Aswan was akin in one way to Jaisalmere, stepping off the train to be assaulted by a solid wall of 48' C heat, after the first natural attack I waited for the inevitable touts….. But they failed to materialise, I was instead offered greetings from proud and friendly strangers of "Welcome to Aswan" or "Welcome to Egypt" coupled with sincere smiles and nods. After making my way to my hostel, with heightened spirits from the local hospitality, and the unraveling of the ever familiar routine of storing my gear, I headed down to the magical Nile River to take a felucca down to a traditional Nubian
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