Blogs from Los Glaciares National Park , Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America


"It’s the glaciers, Stupid!" Yes, Patagonia has picturesque dramatic mountain peaks: Yes, it has awesomely beautiful lakes and majestic wildlife: And if there is one thing that makes it stands it out from the crowd it is its glaciers. The Southern Patagonian ice field is the third largest in the world (after Antarctica and Greenland) and by far the most accessible. The glaciers flow off the ice sheet down to 200 metres above sea level, well below the tree line. And Perito Moreno glacier is the ‘Hollywood’ of all glaciers: It is almost as if it was created for tourism. It finishes its 17 km journey opposite a promontory that divides two glacial lakes on the Argentinian side of the border. There are a series of board walks so you can view the glacier flowing down ... read more
just a luminescent blue!
patagonian fox by the shore of Lake Argentina
heading for the based of Mount Fitzroy

Continuation de ma découverte d'El Calafate avec l'incontournable´Glacier Perito Moreno. Direction le Parc National Los Glaciares et une fois acquité du droit d'entrée, poursuite dans le Parc jusqu'au Port de Bajo las Sombras pour embarquer pour une navigation de rapprochement du glacier (ce qu'on appelle le Safari Nautico). L´après-midi, temps libre sur les passerelles aménagées pour voir le glacier plus en détail. Petit hic, le temps n'est pas de la partie et pour la première fois je sors les gants et le coupe-vent. Dommage qu'il ait plu mais la visite du Glacier Perito Moreno reste un incontournable pour tout voyageur passant par El Calafate. Au retour, le bus m'arrêtera à l'entrée de l'accès au Glaciarium (musée des glaces) pour un connaissance approndie de la naissance d'un glacier et pour une multitude d'informations sur le champ de ... read more
Arc en ciel
Première vue du Glacier, c'est un peu couvert...
Ca s'éclaircie, un peu

While I was in the shower this morning, Bernie went onto the Qantas website to try to change our seat allocation for the flight from Punta Arenas to Santiago because he thought our seats were too far back in the plane. Hmmn, that went well, Bernie said that just going onto the site to look at whether other seats were available caused our seats for the long haul Santiago to Auckland leg to be changed to the very, very, back row - right next to the toilets. Great! I guess we'll try again to change our seats when we check-in? We had another early start today. I'm getting to be a bit over all of this getting up in the dark! And, once again, we were ready slightly before the scheduled pick-up time only to end ... read more
Departing Punta Bandera, Lago Argentino
Upsala Iceberg
Another Upsala Iceberg

We landed in El Calafate and immediately liked the place. The view from the airport was spectacular – snow-capped mountains in every direction – and once we arrived in the town, we found a café with a gluten free menu! The first since we left Chicago 3 months ago so that was exciting. Our experience cooking in the hostel was fairly horrendous – let’s just say the breed of backpackers that make it this far south seem to be more interested in outdoor pursuits than cleaning up after themselves or being considerate to others – but we found some nice beef in the supermarket so all was good. El Calafate was a brief stop for us on the way to El Chaltén, the other entrance to Los Glaciares National Park, but it did have one big ... read more
The "alternative" route
Guacano close-up!
Sheep on the ranch!

Arriviamo ad El Chalten belle fresche, dopo la notte alla gelida stazione di El Calafate. Il tempo fa schifo. Freddo, pioggia, grigio. Il vento patagonico soffia abbastanza da produrmi rasta, ma non da caricarsi le nuvole. È la vigilia di Natale, e che vigilia sarebbe senza casa Turriziani? Breve collegamento skype, giusto il tempo di sentirsi 3/4 litigate familiari, beccarsi la dovuta dose di insulti e salutare zii e cuginetti, appollaiati uno sopra all'altro di fronte allo schermo. Ma il Natale speciale non finisce qui. Perché se un destino c'è, quello che ci lega è assistere assieme ad alcuni degli spettacoli più belli della terra...e dopo il Nepal, ecco le Zie! Con una settimana di anticipo rispetto al previsto, mi si parano davanti all'improvviso, capeggiate dall'ing. Franchi ed un manipolo di baldi giovani del nord. Ma ... read more

Sorry for the long hiatus! Many things to tell you, so be ready for an influx of blog posts. First of all, the main reason for the hiatus was how much in the middle of nowhere we were. Southern Patagonia is pure tundra and mountains, so getting services can be difficult. There's no suburbs of cities; there's the city and then nothing for a while and then the city. When the internet cut out on this day, it was out for the entire city for at least 15 hours. Anyway, on to the backfill of blog posts: Today was quite an incredible day. Although we had to get up at 6:30, we had a delicious and filling breakfast buffet waiting for us, and a bus that left at 7:30. We were taken to Puerta Bandera, a ... read more
The fog is fading
Is this real life?
Blue icebergs

Sarah: I looked out of the window on Friday morning and we had a clear day! And the wind had dropped! Seeing the sun rise over the mountains out of our hotel window was a fantastic and welcome sight. Having done a pretty long walk (10 miles) the previous day in less than perfect conditions, we had planned to take it a bit easier. However, the sunshine and the views of the mountains were irresistible and so we set off on an 11 mile walk that was to take us to the base of the glacial lakes up in the mountains, Lake Torre. The walk started with a punishing climb. However, after an hour or two, we were walking through the flat glacier valley floor with the snow-capped peaks ahead of us. It was really spectacular ... read more
Loving the sunshine!!!
Sun went in for a bit!

Nick: There is a bit of a science to packing a rucksack that is to house all of your worldly goods for the next six months, and unless you fancy lugging around a pack the size and weight of a small car everywhere you go, it is necessary to make some firm decisions about what not to take with you. With this in mind, my hiking boots, nor my trusty blue wooly hat, almost did not make the cut. After all, the vast majority of our intended destinations would be hot and humid, not the sort of places a heavy pair of boots would constitute comfortable footwear. In the end, we both found our packs were far emptier and lighter than we had expected, and with several days tramping through the Amazon on the itinerary, in ... read more
First viewpoint. Weather coming in...
Moody mountains with a little glacier poking through. Not quite Perito Moreno!
Time to get this walk done now...

3 janvier 2015 - Jour 78 Une grasse matinée dans un bon lit, comme ça fait du bien! Et on va même pouvoir profiter de notre cabaña de luxe jusqu'à 16h, heure à laquelle nous partons prendre le bus pour la frontière Argentine. Il y a juste le type de l'agence de location qui est venu récupérer notre pick-up vers 11h mais l'affaire était réglée en 5 minutes. Bye-bye l'indépendance de la voiture, re-bonjour les bus... et on va vite se remettre dans le bain. Mais avant ça, on rentabilise notre cuisine en allant nous chercher des plats à réchauffer. Ah bah oui, on ne va quand même pas cuisiner 2 repas de suite, faut pas déconner! Bref, une bonne journée de glandouille avec une connexion wi-fi efficace, le top! Donc à 16h nous nous rendons ... read more
El Chalten et Fitz Roy
Los Rios
Fitz Roy

Momenteel zetten we onze avonturen verder in Zuid-Amerika. Straks reizen we naar Colombia en Noord-Peru. Maar eerste het vierde en laatste verslag over Patagonia op for english version of this entry with more pics, please visit read more
Dark clouds gather...
3000 year old Alerce trees
Bivaouc on the shores of Lago Mascardi

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