Blogs from Los Glaciares National Park , Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America


We landed in El Calafate and immediately liked the place. The view from the airport was spectacular – snow-capped mountains in every direction – and once we arrived in the town, we found a café with a gluten free menu! The first since we left Chicago 3 months ago so that was exciting. Our experience cooking in the hostel was fairly horrendous – let’s just say the breed of backpackers that make it this far south seem to be more interested in outdoor pursuits than cleaning up after themselves or being considerate to others – but we found some nice beef in the supermarket so all was good. El Calafate was a brief stop for us on the way to El Chaltén, the other entrance to Los Glaciares National Park, but it did have one big ... read more
The "alternative" route
Guacano close-up!
Sheep on the ranch!

Sorry for the long hiatus! Many things to tell you, so be ready for an influx of blog posts. First of all, the main reason for the hiatus was how much in the middle of nowhere we were. Southern Patagonia is pure tundra and mountains, so getting services can be difficult. There's no suburbs of cities; there's the city and then nothing for a while and then the city. When the internet cut out on this day, it was out for the entire city for at least 15 hours. Anyway, on to the backfill of blog posts: Today was quite an incredible day. Although we had to get up at 6:30, we had a delicious and filling breakfast buffet waiting for us, and a bus that left at 7:30. We were taken to Puerta Bandera, a ... read more
The fog is fading
Is this real life?
Blue icebergs

Sarah: I looked out of the window on Friday morning and we had a clear day! And the wind had dropped! Seeing the sun rise over the mountains out of our hotel window was a fantastic and welcome sight. Having done a pretty long walk (10 miles) the previous day in less than perfect conditions, we had planned to take it a bit easier. However, the sunshine and the views of the mountains were irresistible and so we set off on an 11 mile walk that was to take us to the base of the glacial lakes up in the mountains, Lake Torre. The walk started with a punishing climb. However, after an hour or two, we were walking through the flat glacier valley floor with the snow-capped peaks ahead of us. It was really spectacular ... read more
Loving the sunshine!!!
Sun went in for a bit!

Nick: There is a bit of a science to packing a rucksack that is to house all of your worldly goods for the next six months, and unless you fancy lugging around a pack the size and weight of a small car everywhere you go, it is necessary to make some firm decisions about what not to take with you. With this in mind, my hiking boots, nor my trusty blue wooly hat, almost did not make the cut. After all, the vast majority of our intended destinations would be hot and humid, not the sort of places a heavy pair of boots would constitute comfortable footwear. In the end, we both found our packs were far emptier and lighter than we had expected, and with several days tramping through the Amazon on the itinerary, in ... read more
First viewpoint. Weather coming in...
Moody mountains with a little glacier poking through. Not quite Perito Moreno!
Time to get this walk done now...

3 janvier 2015 - Jour 78 Une grasse matinée dans un bon lit, comme ça fait du bien! Et on va même pouvoir profiter de notre cabaña de luxe jusqu'à 16h, heure à laquelle nous partons prendre le bus pour la frontière Argentine. Il y a juste le type de l'agence de location qui est venu récupérer notre pick-up vers 11h mais l'affaire était réglée en 5 minutes. Bye-bye l'indépendance de la voiture, re-bonjour les bus... et on va vite se remettre dans le bain. Mais avant ça, on rentabilise notre cuisine en allant nous chercher des plats à réchauffer. Ah bah oui, on ne va quand même pas cuisiner 2 repas de suite, faut pas déconner! Bref, une bonne journée de glandouille avec une connexion wi-fi efficace, le top! Donc à 16h nous nous rendons ... read more
El Chalten et Fitz Roy
Los Rios
Fitz Roy

Momenteel zetten we onze avonturen verder in Zuid-Amerika. Straks reizen we naar Colombia en Noord-Peru. Maar eerste het vierde en laatste verslag over Patagonia op for english version of this entry with more pics, please visit read more
Dark clouds gather...
3000 year old Alerce trees
Bivaouc on the shores of Lago Mascardi

Off to the Los Glaciares National Park today to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Up at 6am to hunt for a taxi, or bus company to take us out there. Ended up getting a bus tour for a good price, but its still not cheap when you add in national park fee's and a boat ride. Once again a spectacular day, we can see Torres Del Paine in Chile, clearly - some 450kms away. The bus tour guide says that there are only a few days a year like this, and on bad days they get 3m waves on the lake!!! Bus ride is good, we briefly see an armadillo brefore he disapears, as well as some eagles and a condor ripping into some roadkill. We get to the park, and the glacier blows your mind. ... read more
View to Mt Fitzroy (El Chalten)
Sunrise over Lago Argentina
First glimpse of the glacier

Patagonia is breathtaking.Good luck with weather. I might have traded in some Spanish for Italian and Portuguese (portañol) trying to converse with other tourists. Lost in Los antiguos but I'm trying to make my way to Chile today.... read more
Glacier breaking off
Afternoon hike El Chaltén

Keeping in the national park theme from the Torres del Paine we headed next to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciers. The town of El Calafate sits at the southern edge of the park and it’s here that we base ourselves in a hostel for a couple of days to explore. Los Glaciers National Park is said to be home to some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Argentina, if not South America, well whoever said that isn’t wrong, its classic coffee-table book Patagonia, you’re surrounded by deep blue skies that go on forever, rising up from the horizon in every direction you look are magnificent mountains, incredible glaciers, glistening lakes and thick lush forests. From El Calafate we headed out to the southern reaches of the park to explore the Perito Moreno Glacier, it’s ... read more
2 - Look what i found
3 - Natural Ice Sculptures... llama or a puma probably
4 - View from above

Our heroes spend a long time on a bus in order to go walking. Lots, and lots of walking. Lukcily this walking brings them into contact with some of nature's greatest spectacles and not just tiredness! Hurrah for nature! El Calafate is quite a long way from Puerto Madryn. Actually, "quite a long way" is completely the wrong phrase here, "a soul destroying bus ride" or "one and a quarter days of my life that I'll never see again" would better describe how far apart these two places are. The first leg of our journey began at 8pm on a Tuesday in Madryn, it should have been 7pm but timetables are essentially decoration in Argentina I've come to realise. We stopped in Trelew for 90 minutes for no reason that I could descern, and then pushed ... read more
Lago Argentina
Whisky on the Rocks

Tot: 0.111s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 5; qc: 87; dbt: 0.035s; 1; m:jupiter w:www (; sld: 1; ; mem: 1.7mb