Blogs from Los Glaciares National Park , Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 4


“Don’t lean too far forward,” admonished Carlos (who looked disconcertingly like an elf from Lord of the Rings). He held my hand and a loop of the harness strapped around my waist. I took a deep breath and leaned forward, staring into the intense, bottomless blue of the ice chasm. *** I had been hiking for several hours already across the arctic (Antarctic?) landscape of the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of two advancing glaciers in South America. Although not even the largest of the glaciers in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, its surface exceeds the square mileage of Buenos Aires. To know that I was standing on such a massive, moving piece of ice was humbling in a way that is hard to describe. It is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Argentina, probably due ... read more
From the Park Walkways
Preparing for My "Expedition"
Big Ice

With English translation below Glaciar Perito Moreno Einige Busstunden von Puerto Natales und einen Grenzuebertritt spaeter sind wir in El Calafate. Dieses Staedtchen liegt am suedlichen Ende des Parque Nacional Los Glaciares am Ufer des Lago Argentino und ist Ausgangspunkt zum Perito Moreno Gletscher. Der Gletscher ist seiner Groesse und Lage wegen der wohl bekannteste in ganz Suedamerika. Er ist rund 30 km lang und erstreckt sich ueber einer Breite von rund 5 km in einen Arm des Lago Argentinos. Ab dem Wasserspiegel sind die Eiswaende bis zu 60 Meter hoch. Gleich gegenueber befindet sich eine Halbinsel, weshalb man den Gletscher aus naechster Naehe bewundern kann. Der Gletscher bewegt sich weiter vorwaerts, so kommt es in den letzten Jahren immer wieder vor, dass er bis zur Halbinsel vordringt und den Abfluss des oberen Seeteils blockiert. Wir ... read more
Perito Moreno Gletscher
El Chalten
Cerro und Laguna Torre

We arrived into El Calafate ahead of time which was quite a surprise to us. It was 11pm on the dot when we pulled into the bus station! Thankfully the luck was still on our side and the night was crisp and dry. We quickly made our way to our campsite to head to bed as we had been in transit for 18hours all of which was during the day! The campsite was nice and we found a nice sheltered site for our new tent. We had a quick shower and headed to bed. The following day we had a good look around the city which is beautiful but as with everywhere else in Patagonia it is expensive due to the amount of tourists with money to burn!! There is a nice reserve 15 minutes out ... read more

Wrapped up in our warm and cosy hotel in El Chalten, it didn’t matter about the weather so much anymore, but our first day in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares was a bright and breezy one. In the morning, we had the usual admin to catch up on, but we headed out in the afternoon to walk up the valley a little way through the lenga forests, (I think lenga is something like beech, found in temperate rainforests in Patagonian Chile and Argentina) for views of the Fitzroy range and the glaciers. We planned to venture out all day the following day for more exploration, however, a trip to the national park office and a look at the forecast and we weren’t so keen! However, Sarah had asked the park guards which were the best walks to ... read more
Iceberg, Lago Viedma
Ice climbing, Glaciar Viedma
Lago Viedma from Glaciar Viedma

A full bus transported me to Los Glaciares National Park and we travelled along the Lago Argentino where we admired the stunning views out of the window. First of all, we stopped for our first sight of Perito Moreno Glacier. We then drove to the port where we joined a boat trip to the glacier. The description of the glacier is going to have a lot of superlatives! The views were was a humble experience seeing nature at its fullest! We got very close to the glacier and I braved it out on the deck despite the cold, wind and rain!!! After the boat trip, we hopped back on the bus and we were dropped off to begin our adventure on the boardwalks. We spent 1-2 hours walking on the boardwalks and admiring the glacier ... read more
On the boat!
Approaching the Perito Moreno Glacier
Me on the boat

We zijn Perito Moreno is niet de grootste gletsjer, maar wel degene die het meeste verschuift per dag -- 2 meter. Als je een kwartiertje staat te kijken is de kans groot dat je al een stuk ijs ziet vallen. Het was een machtig gevoel om zo dicht tegen de gletsjer te staan, maar jammer genoeg werd dit gevoel gedeeltelijk verstoord door de grote hoeveelheid toeristen die hier dagelijks passeren. Vanuit El Calafate zijn we ook 2 dagen gaan stappen in El Chalten. Dit was een schitterende tocht. Onze mini-tent kon voor de eerste keer zijn functie vervullen.De eerste dag goed weer en naar de avond toe veel wind en regen. Bijgevolg hebben we daar een zeer koude nacht gehad, wat eigelijk te verwachten viel als je bijna tegen een gletsjer slaapt... de tocht bestond uit ... read more
met de bus op de boot

We want to wish you a mer-ry Christ-mas...unless your name is Mike-or-Jess! Well, I didn´t think it would be difficult being away from friends and family on Christmas but they really did put us through the wringer last night. Of course much of our poor luck was directly associated with poor planning, but none the less, I wish we would have been home enjoying some family time in a warm house or gargling some of Lance´s famous Cinnamonstrosity Sangria and stuffing our yule-tide stomachs with his vegan tamales. It all started when we decided to part ways from our farm where we have been volunteering, declining all of their pleading to have us share the Christmas spirit with them, for we wanted to get some time away from work and get a change of pace. Turns ... read more
Superman´s birthplace fortress or Cerro Torre?
Cerro Torre Sunrise
Camper's Rations

Hiked on the Videma Galcier today. It was very windy. So windy, that my glasses got ripped off my face. As I started after them, which was a bad move, I tripped on the crampons (ice climbing cleats) and started sliding down the glacier towards a huge crevasse. Luckily I got my crampons dug into the ice and stopped my slide a few feet before I would have been in alot of pain. However, my eye glasses were sacrificed to the "ice gods"... read more
Splash 1
Splash 2
Me at the face of the Glacier

We made an unsuccessful, yet valliant effort to get up early and head to the Perito Moreno Glacier. In the end we didn't head out until about 10 am. First stop was the car rental agency (who btw offered helmet and body gear rentals with their vehicles). The car rental was a bit tricky since Leah had her licence but only limited experience driving standard, Adam could drive standard but didn't have his license, I had my licence but can't drive standard and Chris didn't have a licence nor was he able to drive a car. In the end Leah and Adam rented with Leah's licence and Adam as a secondary driver. To keep up pretenses, Leah somewhat successfully drove the car off the lot. As soon as we got around the corner, Adam switched to ... read more

... and because I seem to like write blog entries in pairs; TOP FIVE heroes and villains: HEROES 1. Janet the park ranger in NZ. This spritely 60plus year old met us when we finished our second day of Kepler track having jumped from a hovering helicopter up to her waist in snow on the narrowest of mountain ridges and then spent half a day shoveling clear a series of steps called the ´Great Wall´ before hiking half a dozen miles back to the hut to get a fire going for the ´hardened walkers´who later tramped through... 2. Young girl in Panama old town who sorted us out a place to stay with her friend after we arrived late with nothing sorted and a bit jet lagged after 36hrs of travelling across ten time zones from ... read more

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