Grey Nomads are retired Australians who cash in their super cheques, buy humongous caravans complete with a satellite dish and bike racks and then go travelling to warmer climes for the winter. The Stuart Highway from Port Augusta towards Darwin is packed with them, all heading out at sunrise, pulling in to the next caravan park in time for afternoon tea and a chat with friends from the road. Every evening there are one or two other tiny AVans, like Lina, tucked unobtrusively into corners, and people always greet us courteously, but they know that we are not serious enough, not real Grey Nomads. Two months to travel the 3000 kilometers from Adelaide to Darwin seems like a lot of leisurely time. Plenty of time to visit all those famous Oz icons, check out the National
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