Well, after a summer in New York, I am finally starting on the second leg of my big trip. I touched down in Istanbul yesterday morning, and I plan to do a tour of the countries of the Middle East deemed safe enough to visit. I awoke this morning, my first here in Istanbul, to the swirling, undulating chants blaring from loudspeakers in the Blue Mosque near my hotel, the sound vying with the clamorous slap and swoosh of the wind and rain that has been flogging this ancient city since last night. OK, to be honest, it didn't wake me up. Jet lag woke me up at 5:00 AM, but I can't really complain about that, as I slept for a solid five hours last night, which is better sleep than I've had at
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