Blogs from South, Russia, Europe

Icy gusts rush over the great steppe; snow laden, barren, endless. The moon having never risen gives the stars their meagre chance to light the blanched plains. A man is running seemingly from nowhere. His pace slows as he runs out of breath. Panting and now walking, eventually his energy is depleted and he collapses. Within an hour his skin is frozen solid, paused in time at his final solitary moment. Then as the long night wears on, drifts of snow build up, first against him, then over him shrouding his corpse. His footprints are filled. The final flake of snow floats gently downwards and no trace is left. The sun casts a furtive beam of light over the horizon. A technicolour display that no living creature will observe. This is the story of many men ... read more

Ultima tappa in Russia e la citta' di Astrakhan offre un ottimo incentivo alle celebrazioni; proprio da queste parti, dove l'ampio delta del fiume Volga si getta nel Mar Caspio, si produce uno dei simboli del lusso delle tavole di tutto il mondo: il pregiato caviale nero di storione beluga. Dopo tre settimane di sano ma poco stimolante cibo russo costituito principalmente da zuppe, ravioli e stufati, le mie papille gustative sono piu' che mai pronte per quella grande esplosione di gusto che solo un piatto aristocratico e ricercato come questo sapra' procurarmi. La citta' si rivela subito molto interessante al viaggiatore, con uno splendido cremlino, un riammodernato lungofiume e soprattutto una quantita' incredibile di vecchie abitazioni tradizionali di legno che occupano anche le vie a due passi dal centro; la loro presenza, i loro raffinati ... read more

"I soviet piu' l'elettricita' non fanno il comunismo, anche se e' un dato di fatto che a Stalingrado non passano", cosi' cantavano i CCCP negli anni '80 in quella che e' ormai diventata la colonna sonora di questo mio viaggio nelle terre dell'ex impero sovietico. Stalingrado oggi si chiama Volgograd ma ospita ancora uno dei pochi musei dedicati al baffone rimasti aperti fino ai nostri giorni. Qui si respira ancora aria di guerra anche se nessun conflitto e' ormai piu' alle porte: il sacrificio, la sofferenza e la vittoria vengono ricordate e celebrate per mantenere vivo lo spirito della grande guerra patriottica (la nostra seconda guerra mondiale) che proprio alle porte di questa citta' ha visto svolgersi la piu' grande battaglia nella storia dell'umanita', conclusasi con la prima grande sconfitta dell'armata nazista che ha segnato l'inizio ... read more

In the beginning it was equally difficult to decide to go to Chechnya. The day before there was an attack committed by opponents of Kadyrov. It was a moment hesitate if it really was the right time. Done anyway! Along while hitchhiking from pyotigarsk to Grozny helped the Ossetian man in the first picture me with a lift. Which he not only brought me to Vladikavkaz but also ordered food (picture 2) and even bought credit for my phone. (Even i'd indicated, that it was not necessary) From Pyotigarsk we went first to the city Vladikavkaz in Ossetia. Then I had to pass Ingushetia after i arrived the Chechen region. Everywhere there was control. Also i was in a strange place were mostly men had long beards. Where you sometimes just could scare. This place was ... read more

Arrived about noon after 450km jolly from Volgograd 5hrs, stated early before heat, bike says 39C. Now 5000km on clock, over halfway to China. Mix of cultures here, more Muslim as U go into Kazakhstan. Road here was good - few potholes, with little traffic early Sunday, but countryside is flat and bare, towns very few, fuel stops every 50ks but wizzed past (500k range on Safari tank), 2..3 lakes or is river Volga, but water level well down, 2..3 herds (not many for distance covered) of sheep or cattle pushed about by shepherd - some lose on road too. Stay Park inn, tall so easy to find, not cheapest £60 one night, but did print my stuff and map to Iran consulate instantly, good view from 9th floor, with strong internet link, might get video ... read more