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Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 28th 2005

Collegium Maius There is the old saying that “blind pigs find acorns sometimes.” We were walking around the old city on the Planty with no particular destination in mind. We were just seeing what we could see. About three-quarters around Nancy said, “My feet hurt. Let’s go back to the square.” That was fine with me as my feet hurt also. We had been walking since early morning and now it was about six in the evening. We turned to our right and walked along one of the narrow streets leading back to Market Square. As we walked we saw an open entrance in a very old building. Looking inside we saw a courtyard. “Let’s go in,” I said. I didn’t see any sign indicating we would not be welcome. “Fine with me,” Nancy replied. Inside ... read more
Collegium Maius
Collegium Maius
Collegium Maius

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 28th 2005

Monday afternoon Before WW II 3,500,000 Jews lived in Poland. At the end of the war only 300,000 were still alive. Our travel guide says that today only about 2,000 Jews live in Poland. We visited the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz twice. Our guidebook says that a visitor should take a tram as it is some distance from the historic center of Krakow. We walked. It really isn’t that far. During our wanderings we found two synagogues. For a small fee both can be visited. In one I was told I could take no pictures. In the other an elderly man who collected the small entrance fee encouraged me to take pictures, even of the torah. He seemed especially proud of a beautiful stained glass window that had the menorah. From what I saw it appears ... read more
A street in the Jewish quarter of Krakow.
One of the Synagogues in Krakow
The beautiful menorah window.

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 27th 2005

Krakow like all medieval cities had a city wall and since it was situated beside the Vistula River, Krakow also had a moat. The moat encircled the entire perimeter of Krakow’s Old Town. I was pleased when we discovered that part of the city wall still exists and that the moat was filled in and made into a park that circles the old city. This greenway with its 2.5-mile path is very pleasant to walk along, away from traffic, among the trees. Any street leading away from the Market Square will cross the Planty. Nancy and I both commented on the wisdom of the civic leaders in making the Planty a park instead of allowing it to become simply a convenient mini ‘beltway’ around the old part of town. It is wide and green and filled ... read more
The Planty
The Planty
The Planty

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 26th 2005

We ate our supper at a small restaurant that served only crepes. The crepes were not only very good, they were very inexpensive, less than two dollars for a crepe filled with curried chicken and veggies … do you hear that Crepes Normandy??? Less than two dollars!!! Anyway, we left the restaurant and walked around the front of St. Mary’s Church that sits at the northeast corner of Market Square. I was quite surprised when I saw a wood fire burning beside the church with a large crowd gathered around. You know there is nothing like a crowd to spark interest. Nancy and I edged our way into the crowd to see what was going on. To my surprise the Catholic Cardinal, surrounded by his entourage, was conducting a ceremony, reading aloud from what I took ... read more
Easter Eve Ceremony
The Easter Eve Fire

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 25th 2005

We knew almost nothing about Krakow before our Easter trip to this ancient and beautiful city. All we knew came from the Eastern European guidebook we brought with us from the States and a few comments by various people at IBTS. Kasha, the young woman from Krakow who was giving us a ride to her hometown, told us that Market Square was very nice and that the old section was flat and that made for very easy walking and sightseeing. Kasha was right Krakow is flat. It is hard to find a hill or place of high ground in Krakow. In our wanderings we only discovered one such place and, of course, that is where the castle complex stands. While it is high ground, standing above both the city and Vistula river, it is not high ... read more
The Krakow castle courtyard
Krakow castel tower
Krakow castel cathedral

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 25th 2005

As we wandered around the Krakow castle complex we noticed a sign saying, "Dragon's Lair." We followed the sign and found a small building, rather like a guard's post, at the outer western wall of the castle grounds. From here there is a wonderful view of the Vistula River. This is the entrance to the Dragon's Lair. My first thought was that it was a dungeon where prisoners were kept, but I was wrong. It is the entrance to a cave and centuries ago, so the legend goes, this was the home of a dragon, a mean, nasty, virgin eating dragon. I have thought about this and wondered how in the world could the dragon tell if a young woman walking along the river was a virgin or not? The door leading to the entrance of ... read more
The Dragon of Krakow breathing fire.

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 25th 2005

Breakfast: We woke this morning, glad to be in Krakow, glad that we had arrived safely. I believe that every building within the old moat is hundreds of years old and our hotel is inside that ring. That moat was filled in during the 19th century and turned into a park called the Planty which circles the oldest part of the city. Breakfast is served in the basement of the hotel and what a basement it is. Since the hotel is a renovated town house dating from the 1500’s,the basement is fantastic! The walls and columns are very thick and the walls gradually curve to the supporting columns. The whole basement is a series of very strong arches which divide it into a series of interesting small ‘rooms’. The floors are flat rocks. The dining room ... read more
The Dining area of the Hotel Jan
Doorway in the dining area of the Hotel Jan.

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków March 25th 2005

Commercial mining began in the Wieliczka salt mine early in the 13th century. Salt is still being taken from the mine by evaporating the salty mine water that has been pumped to the surface. Mining of salt by digging stopped in 1996. In centuries past when a horse entered the mine they never saw daylight again, but were worked and housed within the mine. Miners also spent long periods of time in the mine. To alleviate boredom skilled miners carved statues, rooms and a chapel from the salt. We got the chance to tour three levels of the MANY levels of the mine. The tour we took allowed us to see the sights from 64 to 135 meters below the ground. First we had to walk down 400 stairs to get to the first (64 meter) ... read more
Wieliczka Salt Mine
Wieliczka Salt Mine
Wieliczka Salt Mine

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków November 14th 2004

Why is it that the Poles are smiling, friendly and happy all the time? The weather is godawful and it is Drizzleville, Tennesee. It is like being in a black and white film or the colour-turned-down dystopia of Twelve Monkeys. Maybe it is because they invented vodka. The country is an oasis of helpfulness in a desert of miserable sods. Since my last blog I have been to Budapest, back to Prague and now I am in Krakow, Poland. Budapest was nice and sunny and the old city of Buda is an arty photo in every direction you look - a contrast to the junky-filled section of Pest I experienced as a welcome as I walked out of the train station. Kutna Hora is just an hour from Prague. They have the weirdest thing I have ... read more
Vodka love
Weird as fuck
More dead people

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków October 29th 2004

As i always had a weakness for Eastern Europe i always wanted to discover more of this part of the old continent. Since the Low-cost airline SkyEurope has very cheap tickets to central and eastern europe i decided to give my boyfriend a long weekend in Krakow, Poland. From all the eastern european countries Poland has always been the country that least appealed to me. Since from the cities offered by SkyEurope Krakow was the cheapest i decided to read a bit about the city. The image i had of Poland as a grey, east-block country still is true but Krakow seemed to be one of those cities which had kept its old beautiful historic center. It is often reffered to as the second Prague. I decided to book this trip and end of october we ... read more
Basilica of the Virgin Mary's
13th-century Gothic Town Hall Tower
Wavel Castle




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