We checked out of our apartment on Friday morning, after first hearing the story of the "madman" of Ostuni. He is an older man who walks around shouting in a peculiar, but very loud voice, often in front of our apartment, It turns out that he stole a pack of cigarettes when he was 17, and the police beat him so badly that he has permanent brain damage....very, very sad. We had to walk quite a ways to get to the car rental, but the process went smoothly and we were given temporary custody of a white Fiat 500. I was the designated driver for Day One. We headed first for Locorotondo, another hilltop, white town. Our next stop was Matera, the oldest sight of continuous human inhabitation in Italy, if not all Europe. "The area
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