Hands up at the outset, I have had a little bit to drink and no food and I've done heaps of cycling, so. I'm in a most extraordinary place. Matera. Little Mel Gibson was here first, apparently, and filmed Christ being crucified (usual quip about being well hung....) and there's this area called the sassi where folk pretty much used to live in caves. Me too. I've slung the boat out (there being no camping) and shacked up in a hostel, which is one of the caves. I've had a little dilemma today. For the last week I've been heading this general direction, intending to catch a ferry to Corfu, in the assumption that it will be warmer and cheaper, but now I'm on the brink I've got a little confused as to why exactly i
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