I arrived in Santorini along with hundreds of other tourists. We approached the island through the caldera while everyone snapped photos. This place is like a dream. Is this for real? Perched high upon the caldera rim appearing to defy gravity, or at the very least, just waiting for gravity to do its work and pull the whole town of Fira into the sea. But it stays, thankfully, for the tourists. It's hard to describe the mob scene as we departed the ferry boat. Hundreds of people rushing forwards all with packs, suitcases, roller suitcases, motorcycles. We are at the base of the cliff, dramatically announcing itself as a shear wall of volcanic rock, layered red, black, and grey. I walk into the crowd of domatia, those raptious owners of pensions who want us to stay
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