We arrive in Hamburg after a very comfortable and easy three-hour bus ride, quite refreshing actually when one's used to crazily crammed death traps that rattle along pot-holed roads for 15-32 hours towards a destination where you are greeted by scams, touts, backstabbers and all the other usual tourist trail-flotsam and jetsam. In our case, we make our way to our new hosts' place, which turns out to be a spacious old appartment directly out of a 70's Woody Allen-film. The ceilings are high, the floors wooden, and the location central, no wonder its tenants Christine and Johnny have a perpetual smile on their faces. It could also derive from their jobs: Christine is a yoga teacher and Johnny a jack-of-all-trades; primarily woodwork artist and mover of rental cars within Germany, but he seems to have
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