It’s Christmas Eve 2012, and I am on a tour bus in Northern Scandinavia going from Kiruna, Sweden, to Inari, Finland. It is about -25 degrees outside which is a little warmer than it was yesterday, although ice is starting to form on the inside the bus, by the window I am sitting next to. Yes, it is cold, but we keep ourselves warm by having some fun conversation with our fellow tour-goers. Most of them are Australian couples, although there are a few Kiwis thrown in the mix too. They’re all good people and good chats, fun people to be spending long coach journeys with. We eventually arrive at what our tour operator describes as a "resort". I suppose technically it is a resort, as it is a winter leisure complex of sorts where you
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