Page 4 of AncientWanderer Travel Blog Posts


Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Da Nang July 25th 2016

Spent a very pleasant morning strolling about the Nguyen imperial palaces, built between 1803 - 1844 or thereabouts. It is not old by any means but they lived according to Confucian rules and hierarchies which meant that the emporer was entirely removed from his subjects, with his mandarins to take care of affairs of state and his many wives and concubines to keep him happy. They could easily have been living a thousand years earlier such was the dress and ceremony and the rules and regulations covering every aspect of government and every day life. Hue is a very elegant city, with the Song Huang, or Perfume river, running through the centre. They have really nice tree-lined parks running the length of the river as it winds through the city, and with mountains in the distance ... read more
Hue palace
Hue market
Vegie market

Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Da Nang July 24th 2016

Given it was a Sunday I designated it as such, borrowed a bicycle from the guesthouse and cycled the 5 odd km to the beach. It was blazing hot, the kind of day that only mad dogs and English men go out in. It was really nice to be floating about in the sea again, you don't realise how much you miss it until it's not there. Anyway, I lazed about there until the heat and thirst drove me to pedal back to the guesthouse. Wandered back toward the old town, found a secondhand book store and something to read on the next couple of train trips, and had a really nice pho' ga, chicken noodle soup, for lunch then back to the guesthouse to check out and head for the train to Hue. The people ... read more

Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Da Nang July 23rd 2016

Took a cycle tour in the morning with Mr Cu, an excellent guide and a font of local knowledge. We were joined by a Belgian family of 6. If clicking through 21 gears on your racing cycle, travelling at enormous speeds is your thing then this tour is definitely not for you. It was more of a gentle amble through the countryside. First stop was in a rice paddy to plough a bit of field with a water buffalo, then plant a bit of rice then ride the water buffalo. They have an odd gait which makes staying on the beast a bit more difficult than it looks. Our next stop was at a fishing village where we took Coracle type boats out fishing for crabs among the water coconuts. Then it was back to Mr ... read more
Coracle boats
The market restaurant
Street vendor

Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Da Nang July 22nd 2016

I guess I need to be more careful what I wish for. In my last post I was looking forward to getting on the train, and I was honest, right up to the point where I discovered that I had not in fact booked a soft sleeper for the 17 hour trip, nor even a hard sleeper, but I had managed to book a seat that looks a little like an aircraft seat for midgets. It did recline but when the guy in front tried he damned near cut my knees off, so he at least didn't get to recline in comfort. Given that all the other tourists had very sensibly booked the sleepers I was the only non-Vietnamese person in the carriage which was cause for much merriment amongst my fellow travellers. A few of ... read more
Japanese bridge2
Hoi An old town
Bridge by night

Asia » Vietnam » Southeast » Ho Chi Minh City » District 1 July 21st 2016

Decided that today would be another Sunday with a bit of a stroll in the park, a bit of sightseeing and a wander through one or two of the shopping malls. Grabbed a couple of croissants and headed to the park to have a quiet breakfast but was accosted by a couple of guys who wanted to practice English, an Irish junky who wanted to know where to get heroine and wouldn't leave even when I told him I didn't have a clue. Then the touts descended selling sunglasses and all manner of useless crap and the last straw was the hookers who wondered if I wanted a massage with a happy ending. The only bloody happy ending I wanted was to left in peace so I abandoned the park and headed for a shopping mall ... read more
Skyscraper

Asia » Vietnam » Southeast » Ho Chi Minh City » District 1 July 20th 2016

A lazier day today. Walked down to my favourite cafe round the corner from the hotel and found the pavement blackened, fire engines and cops everywhere, asked if there had been a fire but no, they were filming a scene for a local movie. Sadly they already had a star and didnt need another but fun to watch. Then walked to the War Remnants museum. What a powerful display that is. It should be compulsory viewing for all Americans. I'm probably already coming across as rabidly anti-American but when you look at the thousands of tons of chemical and biological weapons they dropped here, defoliants, dioxins and gases, not to mention the massacres of women and children and the beheading of villagers in a country they had no place being at all, in direct contravention of ... read more
WMD
The modern face of HCMC
Notre dame

Asia » Vietnam July 20th 2016

The 10 hour bus trip from Kratie to Ho Chi Minh city via Phnom Penh turned into a 14 hour trip. Crossing the border was straightforward, we all piled off the bus at Cambodian immigration and got our exit stamps then walked about 25 metres to Vietnamese immigration where they checked our visas gave us an entry stamp and it was back on the bus. We were treated to a spectacular lightning display as we approached HCMC and then it bucketed down but stopped just as we entered the city. What a crazy place this is, so many people and so many motorbikes nearly all of them little 100cc or 125cc Honda scooters. I gotta buy shares in Honda. Got seen off by the taxi driver that took me to the hotel but even so I ... read more
Uxo
M30
Bui vien

Asia » Cambodia » East » KratiĆ© July 16th 2016

Absolutely the best 18 bucks I've spent in ages. The coffee and pumpkin bread (think ginger bread) that the good people at Sorya kayaking served up at 7.00 in the morning was almost worth the price of admission alone. Once the kayaks were loaded onto the truck we clambered on with them, 2 French girls, 3 French guys, myself and Lucky our guide, for the 40km drive to the drop off point on the Te (pronounced Tay) river. A bit of a slither down a steep, muddy bank and we were paired off (double yaks) for the 15km paddle, which was fortunately all downstream. About half way along we stopped at a village and clambered up through more mud, but nothing like what was waiting in store for us. The village is a small family concern ... read more
Rice field
Getting down and dirty
Bayon

Asia » Cambodia » East » KratiĆ© July 15th 2016

Kratie lies on the banks of the mighty Mekong river in the north east of Cambodia around 250km from Phnom Penh. The reason I decided to come here was to kayak with the Irrawaddy dolphins. There are only 3 rivers in which these dolphins still exist although they are still found in some coastal areas. In the stretch of the Mekong just north of Kratie the remaining population of Irrawaddy dolphins is between 70 -80 individuals. This was to be one of the highlights of the trip but as Von Moltke said " no plan survives first contact with the enemy". Bloody Prussian. Sadly he was right and I received an email from Pete, the owner of Sorya kayak adventures a couple of days back very apologetically telling me that the Mekong was now too big ... read more
Irrawaddy Dolphins1
Mekong river

Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh July 14th 2016

After a rather harrowing day yesterday spending about 6 hours at Choeung Ek and S21 and then another 3 or 4 hours writing about it I needed some light relief and some dinner and found both at a corner bar/eatery a couple of blocks from the hotel. Met a young English couple doing the opposite circuit from me through SE Asia. Their enthusiasm for Vietnam was infectious and has me really looking forward to the next few weeks. They have restored my faith in humanity, we'll them and a 12 year old Khmer kid who hustled me into buying a woven bracelet for a buck after opening a can of whoop ass on me at the pool table. John if you're reading this, start your own damned Blog!! And don't forget to send me a link. ... read more
The Shop
Independence monument




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