Today we take another long drive, this time west to the Grumeti River in search of the great Wildebeest migration, which is something I really want to see. The herds of Wildebeest and Zebra slowly thicken as we move west and suddenly, it seems, the plain is completely filled with Wildebeest, what an awesome site. I had hoped we might see the herds crossing the Grumeti River, it was a long shot, but you hope for these things. I didn't quite get my wish but as we came to the river ford the bodies of those Widebeest that had attempted the crossing and failed were piled up in the river with a vast flock of Vultures and Maribu Storks feasting on the carcasses. You definitely didn't want to get downwind of that lot. As we follow ... read more

A lazy start to a looong day's driving with breakfast at 8.30 then pack up the LandCruiser and on the road by 10.00am. We are heading for the Serenera Camp Site in the middle of the Serengeti Park, going via the Ngorongoro Reserve. A couple of hours into the trip and the first site of the Ngorongoro Crater from the rim is worth the whole trip - it's a truly spectacular site. Another hours drive through the Maasai country around Ngorongoro, with herds of cattle and goats being driven by Maasai boys in what seems very inhospitable country, and we come to the entrance to the Serengeti Park. The southern end of the park is very dry with a distinct lack of either flora or fauna but as we move north and west it slowly becomes ... read more

Spent half a day in the air to get here. As we descended into Kilimanjaro Airport a huge full moon hung Mt Kilimanjaro - what a spectacular sight, however the size of it did reinforce that I'd made the right decision in Not climbing it. Had a guy waiting for me at the airport which was welcome and asked him to stop at a bank with an ATM on the way to the hotel and that's when things got a bit interesting. The machine slowly swallowed my card then announced it was out of service with my card still in the slot but just beyond reach. After prolonged discussion with the driver and a couple of security people that threatened to go on all night I got out my trusty pocket knife and by the light ... read more

Met up with Innocent, was invited back to have a look at his Mother's friend's house where he stay in Musanze. Its a simple 3 room house consisting of 2 bedrooms and a central living area. The cookhouse and bathroom are separate. It has everything they need. Then its a mad rush to get tickets and jump on the bus back to Kigali - why do Africans insist on closing all the windows on the bus? I'm about ready to expire when we get back. Innocent's sister Isembe is at the bus station to meet us, a very pretty and studious 18 year old. We went to Cafe Bourbon and spent a couple of hours talking about life in Kigali then Innocent went back to Musanze to get more work, Isembe back to campus and I ... read more

I had intended going to the Genocide Memorial in Kigali this morning but had not realised the extent to which Umuganda applies. The streets are completely empty of vehicles, including taxis and motos as every person 18 or over, including the President, is expected to clean up their local area from 8.00am - 11.00am. Will have to put the Genocide Memorial off to another day. Wandered down to the bus station to wait for my bus to Musanze and got talking to a 20 year old Rwandan Engineering Student. His story was a pretty harrowing one with him and his sister being orphaned in the 1994 genocide. He was 2 and she just 8 months old at the time. Some how he made it from Musanze, in the north of Rwanda to the UN camps in ... read more