Descending through smokey, brown fog into CM. It's a hustle bustle city with the smell of burning rice fields and the intense smoke of same! I got tomy little oasis guesthouse just on the other side of the river from the old town. Baan Orapin - highly recc. it to anyone who wants to splurge a little ($40). Clean little jungle of a place with traditional Thai architecture, teak floors, a beautiful net covering the queen-size bed, tv, private bath and sitting room. The first night I arrived I took off walking (it was still light) across a small concrete walking bridge over the Ping River. I felt like I was in a movie, of course - the high bridge (4 feet wide) - it is unfinished, thus NO railings....so when a bicycling monk approaches, you
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