Tuesday 25 May Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay. Its 6.00 am, and the noises of Vietnam have already had me awake for 30 minutes. Crossing from China to Vietnam, nothing marks the differential as much as the noise at the start of the day. If Robin Williams made us understand how HOT, DAMN HOT it gets here, then noise, noise, noise is what a visit will confirm. Nothing makes this change more obvious than the omnipresent motorbike. Whereas the Chinese have moved in massive numbers to silent electric battery powered scooters, and golf cart buses, the clattering Vietnamese “Honda Dream” still rules south of the border. Daylight signifies time to rest the thick digit on horns and for hopeful motorbike-taxis to start shouting, looking for work. The trucks, vans and buses, with their cascading multi-toned horns,
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