Cat Ba Cruising

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'Are you going to Halong Bay' is the question on every tourist and tour operators lips when you arrive in Hanoi. The most visited site in all of Vietnam has, like most beautiful areas in the country, been subject to 'tour overkill' and with reports of "disco lighted" caves and dodgy boat trips we decided to go to Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay instead.

It was an efficient service to Cat Ba via a Bus-Boat-Bus combination and meant we arrived on the island four hours after departure. Cat Ba island lies further south of Halong Bay and sits within paddling reach of the beautiful Lan Ha Bay. The island had the added advantage of numerous beaches, a national park and plenty of Bia Hoi stalls. It was the perfect place to base ourselves for a trip to the less touristed but no less beautiful Lan Ha Bay.

The island was larger than we had expected and very mountainous but unfortunately it had also been discovered by holidaying Hanoians. The harbour area, where most of the hotels and restaurants are situated, was a bit of a high storey nightmare but the view out to sea more than made up for it. I left Han in a Cafe and found a newly opened hotel at the other end of the harbour called Hoang Ngoc. The room was on the seventh floor and had amazing views with good prices to match and the owner offered to pick Han, and our bags, up on his bike.

The next day we rented a moped for $3 and drove to Cat Co 2 Beach where we relaxed for the whole day. We had travelled a long way in a relatively short space of time and it was good to just do nothing for a day. We swam in the slightly chilly sea (by Asian standards) and Han cut my hair, much to the delight of the Vietnamese holiday makers.

Having recharged our batteries the day before we donned our trekking boots and rode to the National Park. The road to the park was closed for two hours due to 'blowing holes in the mountain to make new road' so instead we cruised around some of the island. Driving the windy roads with sea views across rice fields and over mountains was beautiful. We stopped at a small beach where the presence of large jellyfish prevented a swim before getting round to the National Park again.

The Park officer requested a small fee to allow us to enter. Whether it went into his pocket or the parks who knows but it was all worth it. There was no map but a fairly straight forward path that lead up to the watch tower that sat high above all else. It was a steep climb firstly up stairs but then along the 'adventurous path' to the top. The view over the verdant mountains made all the sweating worth it but the watch tower was more a tower to watch rather than a tower to watch from as it's creaky, rusty frame erred in the wind.

Back down from the mountain top we started the hunt for a tour to Lan Ha Bay the next day. 'Slo Pony Adventures' won the race with what seemed to be a well organised operation on an traditional styled Chinese junk boat that took you around a section of Lan Ha Bay with kayaking and, as Han was anxious to establish, food included. The western run tour agency had billed it a tour for people who don't like tours, taking you to secluded spots. The price fell according to numbers and by the end of the ten minute meeting we and eight others had signed up.

Up early to meet everyone at 8:45am we were just leaving our hotel, suncream fresh on our faces, when our hotel owner reluctantly told us we had to check out. It was due to excessive noise and drug abuse - haha na - he had failed to explain due to our language difference that his hotel was fully booked for the next three days. It was hard to believe as the hotel was virtually empty but we had to comply.

Having left our bags at reception we made it just in time to catch the minibus to our boat. The numbers had swelled since last night however the boat was easily big enough, but was there enough food now Han thought.

We set sail and cruised out through the floating villages that lay in and around the harbour. We were not at Lan Ha Bay yet but the limestone karst scenery was stunning, so dense that it was impossible to sail as there is no wind.

The gentle drone of the engine made lounging in the beanbags on deck as we passed through this amazing scenery a serene experience. There were no tour boats in sight, only this dramatic seascape that we were soon to be part of. The tandem kayaks were untied, Han and I got in and paddled towards a lagoon.

The tour of Lan Ha Bay was now interactive and we were able to paddle our own course around, through and beneath the giant limestone karsts and into gaping lagoons. Along the way we saw jellyfish the size of footballs that rose to the surface before disappearing beneath the green water. After two hours or so of exploration the group reconvened for lunch which, much to Hannah's delight, was excellent.

With our stomachs full the boat motored on through this vast scenery before dropping anchor for more kayaking and even beaching. This time we were more out in the open seas and this had created more archways through the karsts leading to more beautiful lagoons that echoed with the sounds of crickets. With tired arms we found a beach and I snoozed for half an hour or so before going back to the boat to use it as a diving platform.

The slow journey back left plenty of time for gazing at the changing shapes of Lan Ha Bay. The many floating villages and it's inhabitants added depth to what is more than just a sight for tourists like Halong Bay has become. However, despite seeing no other boat on our trip, we did see someone wakeboarding which our guide told us cost $100 for ten minutes. That's crazy even before you think he spent most of those minutes falling off. A sign that Lan Ha Bay is not far from mass tourisms grasp.

It had been a great day and, after finding a new hotel, we went to our favourite Bia Hoi stall where the friendly owner served us copious amounts of the cheap beer as well as some fried noodles for dinner.

Our last day on Cat Ba was spent walking the scenic cliff path to the beach where we met a nice couple from Scotland whom we shared travel stories with. It is nice reminiscing with people about where we have been and what we have done. After almost eight months away we are starting to feel quite the seasoned traveler.

Cat Ba Island had been the perfect base for a few days of fun and relaxation and the gateway to Lan Ha Bay. There was no power in the day which, despite the hordes of domestic tourists, that swelled further as the week neared it's end, and the disproportionate amount of ugly high-rise hotels, gave the place an 'island charm' if you could forget about the noise created by the generators.

We had enjoyed our time on this island but natural beauty is fast being met by suited men with hard hats and clipboards racing for development. But then are we not partly responsible? I just hope Lan Ha Bay and it's floating villages are not next.

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Comments

[Harriet]

kayaks! that is all i have to say!