As we leave the Hunza Valley and head into Gilgit, the scenery and atmosphere changes drastically. There is a big military presence, as Gilgit is the military and administrative headquarters for the Northern Area - most notably, there are guns all over and there are no women on the streets. As we get off of our bus, the place is a little overwhelming. We walk around looking for our hotel. Our first choice was either 1) full, 2) closed, or 3) now a girls' hostel. You could imagine our confusion by this conflicting information, but somehow we got all three explanations from the same man in the same conversation. Anyway, somehow we ended up in the Madina. It was a Westerners’ oasis - BBC, the first white people we’ve seen in a long time, and
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