MONDAY 2nd June. At 17:00 we left Amritsar for Wagha to observe the Ceremony of the Border Closure. Just before the Indian and Pakistani Armies conduct this amazing spectacle of national pride, the squads of soldiers parade up and down with much posturing and silly-walks, whilst the audiences on both sides shout encouragement. On the Indian side, the Sergeant Major shouts "Hindustan," and the audiencece replies with some other undeciphered shout. The opposing Pakistan SM shouts "Pakistan," and similarly gets a retort from the crowd. This goes on for ages! Both the Indian and Pakistan flags are lowered at the same rate, and finally are lowered in harmony. Before this ceremony, at least on the Indian side, is dancing performed enthusiastically by ladies in saris, and children on the road leading to the border. It seems
... read more