After a so so nights sleep on the hardest mattresses yet but with incredible views over the lake in Pokhara, we took a mini van 6 hours, all the way through a 45 minute traffic jam in Kathmandu to the ancient medieval city of Bhaktapur. A 900 year old city on the UN's World Heritage Site list----and well worth it----this is a must see. Checked into a quaint guesthouse, unbeknowst to us, which is next to a temple where the bell ringing ritual of puja (loud) starts around 4am. Nonetheless, we all were charmed with the intricate wood carvings, cobblestone streets, artists galore and narrow ally ways with little or no cars (but watch out for the motorcycles)---truly a step back in time. We regretfully leave this afternoon to return to Kathmandu to finally begin
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