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Published: December 18th 2005
I had my fill of adventure with that bike trip so for the remaining time in Kathmandu we took it easy. The day after was spent on the rooftop of Helena's cafe-- we stayed there basking in the 70 degree sun, listening to the energy of the city below, imbibing San Miguel beer, and nibbling on tuna sandwiches, chips and salsa, chocolate cake and coffee (all for less than $10 US) while leisurely taking in a good book (yes I read-- well ok, it was Time magazine-- alright, People magazine-- it was a pamphlet handed out by one of the tour agents on the street).
So though we weren't willing to brave the outer parts of Kathmandu, we still wanted to experience a little more of Nepal before heading to India. Our original plan was to avoid the insurgent activity that exists outside of Kathmandu by traveling overhead to Varanasi-- the travel agent quoted $130 for the flight which seemed more than reasonable. But then we considered the current cease-fire b/w the Maoists and the govt, and hatched a brilliant plan- in an effort to recover the lost expense from the Chengdu bike fiasco, we would try to tough it
Lake View
Annapurna on the right, Macchupuchare on the leftout on a 20 hr bus drive across the border on one of the rickety local buses that cost a mere $13. The fare would be cheaper than the departure tax imposed at the airport (1100 Rs). To break up the haul, we'd visit Pokhara 6 hrs west of the capital, which would reduce the ride to the Indian border by a couple hours.
Pokhara was a great stop. It still takes in its share of tourists who prefer to stray from the urban chaos of Kathmandu and who strategically base themselves closer to the Annapurna circuit. We extended the pampering theme (it's way too easy to do here) and lazed about on Pokhara's gorgeous lake, Phewa Tal. It's a breathtaking view-- with the shimmering lake situated in the hillside valley, the Annapurnas and nearby pyramidal peak of the 6500m Machupuchhare serves as a stunning backdrop. We took a rowboat out for the day, Carolee sprawled out at the bow with a beer and various Indian sweets, and I playing man-servant, rowing her from shore to shore. The second day I redeemed myself on the motorcycle, taking it out past the city limits onto the dusty roads of the
hillsides and small highway-side towns. The ride was great- until we came upon a flooded elevated road, which was more a "pond" then a puddle. With 2 hours experience under my belt, I felt confident enough to navigate through and toppled the bike into the water, much to the amusement of the audience of villagers. But no one was hurt (Carolee chose to get off and walk across before I attempted) and the rental company (friend of the owner of the hotel at which we were staying) didn't detect any damages. In the evenings we relaxed lakeside, indulged in Tuborg beer, fine Nepali cuisine, and a sampling of the hillside vegetation. This is how a holiday should be.
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Joanna
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Happy Birthday & Merry Christmas!
Happy Birthday Carolee and hope you two have a Merry Christmas! We miss you.