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Published: December 12th 2005
Guide and Porters
Leslie and Tim with our guide and porters.Day 4 on our trek there were not as many caravans because we're off the main supply route. The ecosystem transforms into a surreal forest of huge twisted moss covered rhododendrons (unfortunately not in bloom--but equally beautiful) Tibetan prayer flags--some bright and some tattered and faded, flapping in the breeze everywhere! Glimpses of the giant grand white Annapurnas (most of them over 22,000 ft) peek at us through the trees. We are highly satisfied on our choice of trekking trails to sample not only the Himalayas but the culture as well. Another great lunch on the trail----Rebecca is amazing in her endurance for Dal Bhaat (the national, traditional dish of rice and lentils) The rest of us opt out for noodles, soups and pizzas. Forty five minues before our slog up the steeps to Tadapani--our porter spots wild monkeys across the valley in the trees. Eventually our trail takes us within 50 yards of them. They're silver with black faces and long rope like tails---they're called Langurs. Our teahouse in Tadapani is reminescent of Miss Kitty's saloon in Gunsmoke (maybe worse) There are about 8 teahouses in this tiny Dodge City---that's about all it consisted of. Our guide, Dilip (highly recommended
Teahouse Kid Trio
Ghorepani entertainment committee. by the way bhandarik12@yahoo.com) tells us that in 1999, Nepal saw approx 74,000 trekkers come through. Last year in 2004, there were only 30,000. Hence the overbuilt empty supply of teahouses begging for business. This teahouse had kerosene for evening lights and they heated the dining room with buckets of carefully placed hot coals under the large dining table which is draped in wool blankets. You stick your legs under and drape the blanket upon your legs---very toasty. After a fierce game of cards (Dilip is an avid and fun, not to mention, smart player), we took in the celestial wonder that comes in areas with little or no electricity and the blessing of a new moon. We had a hard time locating even the basic constellations because there were too many. Tim has found his niche in the warm and friendly teahouse chulo's--or kitchens. Hunkering around the cooking fire laughing with the porters and chulo-ladies, watching them massage their babies with oil by warm firelight. Have we mentioned yet how friendly and open Nepali people are??
The next day on the trail within 15 minutes we came across the band? flock? herd? of monkeys again, munching on rhododendrum leaves
Tadapani
The view from our teahouse. like popcorn, and a deer further down, adds variety to the small wildlife list. Down, down, down we went to the village of Ghandruk and fell in love again. A larger well maintained village of 1000 people (and not one souvenir stand to be seen) overlooking the Modi Khola river valley heading up to the Annapurna base camp trek and of course the fabulous towering snowy peaks demanding us to be small and humble. We truly are by now.
A more modern teahouse with private baths, electricity and even a TV (gag) for the porters to watch a Nepali comedy show. We engaged in our last card battle of which cardshark-Dilip won and earned ownership of the cards. Maoist graffti everywhere encouraging the people to join their side gives a reality to the unstable political scene. But actually, we have never felt safer. Many single women from all over the world on the trail, and Leslie confirms this sense of security, but also reminds the girls about being aware at all times. The last day of our trek begins with our daily cultural lesson. This time we get to witness a Gurung tribe woman milking a water buffalo, followed by
Tadapani Teahouse
"Miss Kitty's" teahouse room. a tour of her humble home and life----very very interesting. Dilip bought us 15 juicy oranges for about 70 rupees or $1 and off we went for about 4 1/2 hours to our "pullout". A harrowing ride later in 2 taxis that would rival even Taos' worst delapidated car finalist (all on the left side of the road--what road there is--by the way) we arrive back in Pokharra. All in all a fantastic 6 days----Leslie and Tim could have gone on for another week.
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bill in AK
non-member comment
Chulo Tim
Great writing again-Malia this time? Dhal Bhat takari oh yes. Ghandruk-that sounds like my kind of place. Tim hanging out back in the kitchen-I can relate to that.Rebecca sounds older than your girls Tim. Nice hand stand-no room for error on temple stone. Bill