We met the French couple, Paulo and Enora, at Varanasi station; they were also headed to Nepal via Gorukhpur and I wasted no time in informing them of the latter’s delights. Fortunately there were no substantive delays to the overnight train and on our arrival we were able to catch a bus straight out of Hades. Yes, I admitted, it did - by daylight transit - seem merely grim... No funny business this time at the Nepal border and, indeed, we were not subsequently robbed en route from it . We rolled into Pokhara at 10pm and, hats off, these youngsters were totally up for walking the three kilometres to lakeside. Which we duly did. However, it being low season, much was shut up early and we had to take what crumbs we could both in
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