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Published: December 30th 2023
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Nepal Tour - Nov-2023 Day-8: Kathmandu: Chandragiri Hills and Pashupatinath Temple Kathmandu is situated in Kathmandu Valley surrounded on all sides by hills. It is like a bowl, and according to one theory, once up on a time, it was a lake.
Kathmandu is said to be the oldest, longest inhabited place on earth, continuously populated for last 2000 years. It has an enormous treasure of Hindu and Buddhist cultural and archaeological heritage. Many of these are in damaged condition as this area is highly earthquake-prone, but still, many are in very good condition and many more are wonderfully restored to their old glory, soon after the 2015 earthquake.
As per our guide, some of the Buddhist monuments have been omitted from this tour to accommodate for some other sites.
We had –
- Chandragiri hills
- Budha Nilkanth Temple
- Pashupatinath Temple
- Patan / Lalitpur / Kathmandu Durbars
- Bhaktpur
on our list.
Some of us had a relatively late start for the day: No wake-up call, breakfast at 8.00 am and start at 8.30.
Some of us had to make an early start
once again: On extra payment of Rs. 11,000/- pp, ‘Everest Darshan’ was arranged. This is 45-50 min flight from Kathmandu for viewing Mt. Everest and few other peaks (fly past). This is arranged in a group of 36 passengers in a 72-seater aircraft – all getting a window seat. Members taking this tour were to reach the airport at 5.30 in the morning as these flights operate early – only between 6.00 – 6.30. It was a disappointing start for those who had opted for it as the flight was cancelled at the last minute due to bad weather. Their flight was re-scheduled for the next day (again early start!). They had up-loaded their photographs and videos up on returning – but none were really picturesque. Either they could not capture the views properly or the views were not so good (? bad weather) or the time was very short. The aircraft will have to make two sweeps (for windows on two sides!) of the same peak for everyone to get a glimpse. Of course, those who took this flight, said – they enjoyed.
Our first destination of the day was
Chandragiri Hills – about 30 Km (1½ hrs) from
our hotel.
This was by far the most picturesque site of the entire tour, with excellent views of the mountains – of all colours – from green to blue to white (snow) (pics 106-131). It is said that on a clear day, peaks ranging from Annapurna to Everest can be viewed from the top.
There is a cable-car to go up the hill. It takes from 1550 m (5100 ft) to 2650 m (8700 ft) for NPR 960 (included).
Attractions at the top include visit to Bhaleshwar Temple, zip line (NPR 800 – extra) and a view point (NPR 50 pp – extra).
Returned to Kathmandu and visited
Budha Nilkanth Temple. This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu – in lying down posture – on Shesh Naag. Beautiful idol.
Afternoon and evening were kept for the most important place to visit in Kathmandu – the
Pashupatinath Temple.
Our guides were of immense help in setting the time and sequence for visiting the temple. The most revered time for visiting the temple is during Aarati / Puja which takes place twice a day – in the morning and in the evening.
The temple is dedicated to
Lord Shiva, and according to the mythology, in Pashupatinath, it is the head part and the hind part is in Kedarnath (Uttarakhand, India). The head part in Pashupatinath has five faces – one on each side and the fifth towards the top. One can see the four faces only during Aarati time – when all four gates of the temple open. At other times, only the front gate and the front face is visible. So, first we were guided to the surrounding areas of the main temple to collect at one of the side gates 15-20 min prior to Aarati time. One very interesting place on the back side of the temple is a ‘maze’ in the shape of a swastika, lined with 525 shiv-lings. There is only one entrance to this swastika and only after traversing the all four limbs of swastika you can exit. Since photography is not allowed inside the temple, I could not take a picture of this place and it is not available on the internet also. Nobody should miss this spot.
Had darshan during the Aarati. The usual 5-10 seconds – like at any other major temple.
There is a market near
the temple. ‘
Rudraksha’ is the main attraction. There are many varieties (faces – Mukh) of it. Differentiating between ‘original’ and fake – is a major issue. They have found a solution. EVERY piece (INR 250-3000) is ‘Lab Tested’ and comes with a ‘certificate’!! Making every piece, original!!!
One most noteworthy point at Pashupatinath – and everywhere else in Nepal – was the security – or rather the absence of it! In India, we cannot imagine that this is possible. We have learned to live with the scare of
terrorists for past 30-40 years. We cannot think of entering any major monument, especially a place of Hindu worship without frisking, body search, and leaving all your belongings outside (except money purse – without which you cannot ‘donate’ to the God – Ha Ha Ha). In 10 days in Nepal, be it Sita Temple or Lumbini or Pashupatinath – no where we were searched or had any restrictions. The only restriction being – not to take pictures inside the temple. India is paying heavily for its pseudo-secularism.
Next: Day-9: Patan Durbar and Bhaktpur.
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