Blogs from Gokyo Lakes, Nepal, Asia


Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes November 17th 2018

Today was the end of our little team of walkers. We all ate breakfast together and then Robin and Miriam got ready to go back to Namche via Phortse and we prepared to go over the pass. Overnight the wind had been ferocious, rattling the windows and making our room move. By morning it had settled down a lot and the sun was shining again. Despite this leaving the teahouse the intermittent gusts of wind were enough to knock us off balance and were freezing cold. The walk started climbing gently around the side of the lake. There were a few icy bits to navigate but overall it was fine. Stephen was feeling much better but still not quite 100%, I suspect it’s more fatigue than anything else. Once at the far side of the ... read more
Ascending towards the pass
Ascending towards the pass
Ascending towards the pass

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes November 16th 2018

There are definite pros and cons to ending up in a little group. Obviously it’s much safer and route finding is easier with more eyes. I’ve also found that I can dig deep and keep going as I don’t want to let the team down in a way I don’t necessarily do when it’s just Stephen with me. It’s also more fun having other people to have conversations with, especially at meal times. That said you catch each other’s bugs. Bart felt unwell yesterday, Stephen this morning and me this evening. Typical. We didn’t set an alarm this morning - we ended up waking up around 830am. Sleep was definitely needed. Miriam and Robin had already left as they were planning on walking to the 7th lake, by Cho Oyo base camp, an 8 hr ... read more
Walking towards the 5th lake
5th lake
5th lake

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes November 15th 2018

Today is a much needed rest day. I think it’s safe to say we are all very tired after 4 long days of walking. We had a relative lie in and ate breakfast around 730am. This lodge lights it’s fire in the morning so wasn’t as chilly as some places. After eating & getting our things together we headed out towards the large hill visible from our lodge windows. This is Gokyo Ri, at 5360m it offers views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cholatse & Taboche and Ngozumpa glacier. The walk was immediately steep up and we were slower than we have been. Bart is unfortunately feeling unwell and the rest of us are just tired. One advantage of it being steep is that we had reached the top by 1030am, about 1hr 45mins ... read more
Ascending Gokyo Ri
Ascending Gokyo Ri
Ascending Gokyo Ri

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes November 14th 2018

The room in Dzongla was the coldest we have had so far by quite a long way. Fortunately I was cosy in my sleeping bag liner, sleeping bag and duvet. Annoyingly our water had completely frozen. There was no water to wash in (all frozen), my wet wipes were frozen and even my toothbrush was frozen! Typically this lodge decided it wouldn’t light the fire for breakfast so we shivered through a yummy porridge & French toast. Whilst eating breakfast a Dutch couple were explaining that the glacier over the pass is extremely slippery and difficult without mini-crampons. They were selling theirs having already done the pass. Bart bought one pair and we bought the other, hoping we weren’t being ripped off. After breakfast, around 8am, we set off in the sunshine towards the Cho La ... read more
View on leaving the hotel at Dzongla
View over Dzongla
The glacier up to Cho La

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes March 20th 2016

We discussed what would be next by the furnace fire. Looking at the map, it became clear that we all had time to add in some more trekking and maybe, instead of going back from EBC the way we came, we could try to get somewhere else and return in a completely unique way. We had reached Gorak Shep quickly from Namche and we had experienced both Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar in one day. We all decided that we would try to push on. "Gokyo." As I tapped the map with my finger. "But to get there we'll need to cross this thing," I said staring at a large mountain range in the path... Day 13 After staying in our cold lodge at Gorak Shep (5180m) for two nights, it was time to get ... read more
Cho La Traverse
Ama Dablam
Gokyo Lake

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes April 28th 2014

I'd walked the Annapurna circuit on my own, partly to gauge how I coped with the altitude at my own pace but also to get fitter - carrying 12kg, up to 6-7 hours a day for 18 days certainly did that. My grand plan was that if I managed the Annapurna OK I'd attempt the Gokyo lakes and Everest base camp trek in the Khumbu region; if not well, I'd spend my remaining time in Nepal doing 'other stuff' (as yet undetermined.. I had no real plan B at this point). So, having successfully hauled myself and my rucksack around the Annapurna, albeit at times cursing myself for overpacking or mentally willing myself through the next block of 10 steps as I contemplated in what moment of madness....., I booked myself on a group tour to ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes April 16th 2014

After the success of our previous year's exploits up Kilimanjaro, another high altitude mountain trip was called for. Initially at least I had to quell Tarryn's desires to summit an 8000m peak, pointing out what I considered the fairly obvious 'danger of death' that no doubt would have had various mothers having kittens. Climbing Kilimanjaro with a set of porters practically carrying us up, would not really equate to strolling up a Himalayan peak on our own across glaciers, crevasses and like. And of course the considerable expense (I do have Scottish genes in me). Fortunately for me at some point Tarryn must have watched a real Himalayan climbing documentary (the one on death on K2), rather than Vertical Limit, and realised that yes it would be a bit extreme. So we settled for an exploratory ... read more
At the airport (take 1)
Coffee in Thamel

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes March 14th 2014

12-14 March Days 8-10 Machherma(4470m) to Gokyo(4790m) via Gokyo Ri(5360m) to Dragnag(4700m) We set out from Machhermo after less than an inch of snow from the night before. The weather is clear and sunny and the clouds don’t set in until around 3pm today. The first 45 minutes or so were straight up hill again and then the next 1.5 hours were relatively flat. At this point we reached the river and a series of quite steep climbs up slate rock stairs that took around another hour. Then it was a 45 minute slog through snow to reach Gokyo. Suz and I were both feeling pretty flat today. It was probably our worst day yet in terms of our mind set, right next to day 1. I think the altitude is finally starting to catch up ... read more
red sunset Gokyo
Everest and Lhotse from Gokyo Ri
rock pyramid

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes March 9th 2013

We won. The plan... get up at 0600 for a 0630 departure, we won't get to do sunrise but we might get to have the view to ourselves. I would estimate that there are maybe a maximum of 20 trekkers in the village, so this plan has merit. Based on our time on Kala Patthar and then EBC the whole solitude thing continues to appeal. At 0710 (staffing problems in the kitchen) we leave the relative post porridge warmth and walk down through the village to the lake, it's an icy, snowy path and I earn one wet foot. The two ducks are out and there is mist coming off the lake where a hot spring is located. Some stellar shaped cracks are appearing in the lake, reminiscent of the glacial lake in Manang that we ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Gokyo Lakes March 8th 2013

Warm in my sleeping bag with lots of intense dreams, I think of them as my altitude dreams. Have to make 1 toilet run in the night, cold but so worth it - the night sky is so clear and starry. No yaks to contend with only a few snowy steps. Fall back to sleep easily for another couple of hours. Breakfast is a treat - last nights leftover birthday cake has been fried up and has taken on a kind of smoky taste, compliments the porridge nicely! Say goodbye to Santos and Minmar, the lodge owners, it has been a really personalised stay, I think to myself, yet again, how really lucky we have been to get to have have this experience. On the road at 0821. We have a very easy start, the ground ... read more
Clear Morning View
Dudh Kosi
Crossing Dudh Kosi

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