29 Jan - great bus journey from Pokhara to Kathmandu, comfy and on time. Sitting at the front on the best side to see spectacular views of hills, river rapids and gorges as well as village life. Arrive in Bhaktapur - the city of devotees. The whole town is a UNESCO site so you pay to enter and enjoy the (virtually) traffic-free streets. Check-in to the Shiva Guesthouse, which has an amazing location right on historic Durbar Square. I'm staying in a cute, wee room in this ancient wooden building on the third floor. I feel like the Kumari looking down on everyone from my wooden trellis window frames on to the square with fantastic views of the various temples, statues and the Taleju Grand Bell which is rung at sunrise and sunset. I wander up
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