Bhaktapur - the land that time forgot!

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29 Jan - great bus journey from Pokhara to Kathmandu, comfy and on time. Sitting at the front on the best side to see spectacular views of hills, river rapids and gorges as well as village life.

Arrive in Bhaktapur - the city of devotees. The whole town is a UNESCO site so you pay to enter and enjoy the (virtually) traffic-free streets. Check-in to the Shiva Guesthouse, which has an amazing location right on historic Durbar Square. I'm staying in a cute, wee room in this ancient wooden building on the third floor. I feel like the Kumari looking down on everyone from my wooden trellis window frames on to the square with fantastic views of the various temples, statues and the Taleju Grand Bell which is rung at sunrise and sunset.

I wander up and down the winding, narrow streets and lanes for an hour or so. The city is famous for centuries old traditions of craftsmanship, especially potters and woodcarvers. I buy a beautiful wooden carving of Ganesh - the Hindu god of prosperity & wisdom whose parents were Shiva (the Creator & Destroyer) and Parvati (Mahadevi, the Great Goddess).

30 Jan - last day in Nepal. Leisurely morning and sit on the guesthouse's rooftop terrace to enjoy my final view of the Himalayas while reading a book about sherpas and famous Himalayan climbs. I have read so many books during my travels specific to each country I have visited. These, together with reading local newspapers, are an extremely informative way to learn about different countries, cultures and politics and much better than reading textbooks from afar or watching documentaries. I explore more of Bhaktapur in the afternoon visiting the intriguing Potters' Square where I buy a cute wee pottery yak which is to hold incense sticks! Head to the Taumadhi Tole area to see the magnificent 5-storey Nyatapola Temple, the highest in Nepal and typical of Newari architecture, built in 1702. The stairway is flanked by various guardian figures - Rajput wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses, with each figure being 10 times stronger than the one below.

31 Jan - flight to Bangkok. On a massive Boeing 777 which is less than half full...another sign of the recession I suppose. Thai Airways are extremely courteous and it's a great flight with yummy meal, wine flowing constantly and a great chick flick with Richard Gere. Wander round Bangkok airport for a few hours trying to find a bed / comfy spot but end up spending an uncomfortable, cold night on the metal seats in the departure lounge 😞 Flight to Phomn Penh is on time, no probs getting visa and backpack arrives safely, phew.

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