After 11 hours on a bus through rice fields, villages and towns (change of bus at Phnom Penh), we jumped on a tuk tuk straight to a hotel in serious need of showers, food and a stretch. Battambang, and the hotel (Royal Hotel no less!), had a great feel to it - very relaxed, sleepy town obviously making the most of tourism with lots of visitors wandering around. We went for a wee walk that night, at about 9pm, but everything was shut...excepting a textile shop for some reason! We reckoned we were going to enjoy this, and the area did not disappoint. The next day we hired two motorbikes with drivers/guides for one of the best days so far. The guides (from an outfit based outside the hotel) spoke excellent English, were really friendly and
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