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Africa » Egypt » Upper Egypt » Luxor November 16th 2023

Luxor: the spectacular Valley of the Kings and last day in Cairo trip to the Khan el Khalili bazaar We set off early to the Valley of the Kings to avoid crowds. We visited 6 tombs in all. Tutankhamen was a must see of course and yes we saw his mummy but the tomb is very simple.his famous burial mask is in the Egyptian museum and other treasures are all likely to end in the new Grand Egyptian Museum. The most extraordinary of the tombs was Seti 1. At an extra charge of $70AUD it was worth it. Outstanding colours and it is very big with several different sections. Other visits were to Hatshepsut (pronounced hats cheap suit), the Luxor temple at night which was great and Karnak. Karnak and Luxor temple are connected by a ... read more
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Africa » Egypt » Upper Egypt » Kom Ombo November 16th 2023

We had fun sailing from Aswan to Luxor over 3 nights. One very special highlight was the night visit to Kom Ombo. The atmosphere was breathtaking.The temple is dedicated to both Horus the falcon on one side and Sobek the fertility crocodile on the other. It was fantastic! The cruise boat is quite relaxing being equipped with nice rooms, we scored a suite! And a swimming pool on the top deck. Fun! There were added attractions of passing through a lock and watching the merchants row up to the boat and throw their wares to customers on the top deck. What a hoot it was!... read more
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Africa » Morocco » Souss » Taroudannt November 14th 2023

Medina's and souks are all very atmospheric, but it was time to leave the winding alleys behind us and enter the wide open spaces. The mountains and the plains, but mostly the mountains. With its little towns and villages, its sheep herders and friendly donkeys, where it isn't the sound of traders you hear, but of the wind, and goats. The call of a donkey echoing through the valley, a dog barking in the night, and birds twittering in the mornings. Where the nights can be freezing, but the hearth in the kitchen offers warmth and comfort. Thick blankets ward of the cold in the bedroom. The people laugh and smile, worn faces from the harsh conditions, but full of lines of mirth and friendliness. This is a different Morocco. Our first stop was Gite de ... read more
Fes to Boulmane
Fes to Boulmane
Fes to Boulmane

Africa » Madagascar » Antananarivo November 12th 2023

We now await our plane home at Tana's modern airport. It has been a whirlwind tour and finished with trips to famous rain forest parks and on our last day a tour of Tana's reconstructed royal palace. We drove back from Manakara on the coast and before reaching the top of the escarpment stopped at Ranomafana National Park. Ranomafana means hot water and the town was originally created as a colonial thermal spa. The National Park is a popular destination for tourists, especially those just focused on the wildlife, because it is within striking distance of Tana. It has had a lot of support from NGOs and academics and there is an on site Research Station that also has programs for overseas students. It is a rainforest and lived up to its name. There is a ... read more
Lemur watching in Andasibe
Mrs and Mr Giraffe weevil
Great team work hammering out a new spade

Africa » Madagascar » Fianarantsoa November 8th 2023

A significant part of the motivation when traveling anywhere is understanding daily life. For the next leg of our trip we have driven North on the main N7 trunk road from Ambalavao to Fianarantsoa in the central Highlands and then down the escarpment that splits Madagascar in half to Manakara on the East Coast. We had a morning in Ambalavao and luckily it was Wednesday. There were local workshops to visit making paper using a technology introduced by the Arabs and silk weaving using cocoons harvested from the wild. The big attraction was that it was market day. The market was vast, filling every available street. I had to walk in a constant stoop to avoid overhead canopies. (People are fascinated by my height, it makes them smile, and I have yet to find a taller ... read more
Medicines for sales at Ambalavao market
JeanBe showed us around Ambalavao market
The Zebu market in Ambalavao

Africa » Madagascar » Ambalavao November 3rd 2023

As we drove up N7 towards Ranohina large escarpments of sandstone started to appear either side of us. This was Isola National Park. Our official NP guide, Jose, was a member of the local Bara tribe. He spoke excellent English in measured tones and had exceptional knowledge of the local wildlife and traditions. The Isola is a long range of sandstone escarpments created by tectonic forces as Madagascar separated from mainland Africa. There are steep cliffs and gorges with wonderful natural swimming pools below crystal waterfalls. When you climbed up the escarpments there were spectacular vistas. The local Bara people bury their ancestors high up on the cliffs so they are close to the sky. Ancestors are very very important to all Malagasy and many of the local traditions revolve around them. After three days mourning ... read more
Pachypodium in Isola National Park
Juvenile Long Eared Madagascan Owl
Lemur mum and baby by our front door in Camp Catta

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes November 3rd 2023

I left Ceuta running, and continued down the road until Fnideq, on the other side of the border. There I ran out of steam, and slowed down a bit. After sorting the travellers needs of this day and age, the almighty local sim-card and an ATM for some Moroccan cash, I got myself a 'grand taxi' to Tetouan. The taxi is not grand, in the grandiose sense, but simply refers to a shared taxi, as opposed to the petite taxi, which is a city cab. So far, for my lessons on the types of Moroccan taxis. I didn't stay in Tetouan, I just changed to a bus there, to get to Chefchaouen, my first port of call in Morocco. Chefchaouen is Smurf city, it's as blue as it can get. Chefchaouen also means City of Smurfs ... read more
Tetouan to Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen

Africa » Madagascar » Toliara November 1st 2023

Well in fact we had one more day at the beach. The key difference was that we got to Ifaty, from where there is a 'good' road to Tuliara, the main city in the South. Our 4x4 adventure had come to an end. The tarmac road made Ifaty a tourist town with numerous hotels. Ironically the beach was not nearly as nice as those further North from where we had come. At some point they will presumably create a tarmac road north to Morombe. This will transform the area and turn it into a holiday strip. Hotels will be built by outside investors. I can see that the coastal Vezo people and their pirogues would not survive. In fact I can't see the locals gaining any benefit from a 'good' road. We had stopped north of ... read more
Distilling the rum
Planning for sapphires South of Isola
Lemurs and other animals are not shy

Africa » Egypt » Lower Egypt » Giza October 30th 2023

Another bucket list day today. Up early and off to the pyramids to beat the crowds. First thing was to go into the Great Pyramid of Cheops circa 2700 BC. Phenomenal! It was an achievement to go all the way into the burial chamber. Initially I had a bit of a panic and turned back but then recovered and went all the way. It’s quite steep, quite low in parts, hot and the ramp inside is narrow. We spent a few hours walking around the site and going to the Sphinx. Later we stopped for lunch: Koshary then on the the Egyptian Museum where Tutankhamen's burial mask and sarcophagus are. There are also many thousands of other pieces and although the museum is old in style it is still makes for an amazing visit.... read more
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Africa » Egypt » Lower Egypt » Cairo October 29th 2023

Arrived late afternoon and met by hotel driver. This worked well as he gave us an insight into some of the areas which I had been researching. Drove past Kahn el Khalili and through the downtown area. Everyone emphasises welcome and safety At night we headed out to downtown area to get something to eat. Ended up at Abu Tarek, a restaurant that serves Khoshary. It was great fun and there was a certain theatre about the serving! Abou Tarek restaurant: 2 bowls with amusing waiter who put it all together with some theatrics, 2 sprite and rice pudding=$10 Koshary: chickpeas, fried onions, spaghetti, tiny pasta and garlicky tomato sauce. Add squeeze of lemon, vinegar salt pepper and cumin. After dinner we walked home. Streets are busy and people are friendly. One of the streets was ... read more
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