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Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Sidi Ifni March 29th 2013

Départ de Tiznit 29 mars J'ai finalement atteint la petite ville portuaire de Sidni Ifni vers 18h00 hier soir, étouffé par un surplus de passagers surdimensionnés dans le taxi Mercedes. Ouf. J'ai posé ensuite mon lourd sac dans ma chambre crématoire d'hôtel avant de me coller le derrière sur une terrasse panoramique devant une tajine à la poulpe. La pieuvre, ça se colle bien à la tajine vous savez. Et ça se colle bien aussi entre deux molaires. Ca explique peut-être pourquoi j'ai la bouche caoutchouteuse ce matin. Bon. Malgré cela, je suis bien reposé... quoique la mollesse de mes couchettes des derniers jours m'ont un peu courbaturé. A moins que ce soit le transport en taxi de Tiznit à ici qui commence à se faire sentir dans mon bas de dos. Ce serait normal ça, ... read more
Ma gougoune se sauve!
Popcorn de nuit
Du bleu et du blanc

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tiznit March 27th 2013

Dans le bus d'Agadir vers Sidni Ifni 27 mars ... Je prend donc place dans le bus CTM bien propre d'Agadir. Je suis assis à côté d'une marocaine dans la vingtaine, serré dans son hijab noir, me donnant un peu l'impression de regarder sourire la lune. Elle me parle en français. Je suis surpris, non pas de son français impeccable, mais qu'elle me parle, tout simplement. C'est que depuis mon arrivée au Maroc, les discussions avec les femmes d'ici ne dépassent rarement qu'une seule phrase avant qu'elles ne baissent les yeux et s'éclipsent. Ma voisine de banc se prénomme Leila et, partit de Casablanca, elle est en route pour un quartier pauvre de Tiznit pour y visiter sa famille. Elle est revenu en février d'un stage d'une année en Suisse, ce qui explique son ouverture d'esprit. ... read more
Bus stop
La futur mariée et sa meilleure copine
Face de perroquet

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Sidi Ifni December 28th 2011

Sidi Ifni was the "gateway to the Sahara" ... at least for the Spanish, who tried to hold onto this tiny piece of Morocco after Moroccan independence. Nowadays it's a laid back surfer's village more than anything else. We would have been better off basing ourselves here, than in Agadir, but, since this was our first time in Morocco, we didn't know any better. Next time eh! The original reason for coming here was because of a single stamp from the country of "Ifni". After some searches, we determined that Ifni refered to this part of the African coast ... and that meant we had to get here sometime. Legzira Plage is an even more isolated community than Sidi Ifni, a few km north of Ifni. The Saharan people lead a hard life in these parts ... read more
Moroccan Architecture
Tiznit Fort
Approach to Sidi Ifni

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tiznit March 13th 2011

Chialam koniecznie dodac do opisu Tiznitu legende o jego powstaniu. Masteczko w ktorym tak sztywno reagowali na psa i gdzie nie moglismy znalesc noclegu, a wiesc o naszym przybyciu rozniosla sie w t.zw mig. Otoz dawno dawno temu w czasach, kiedy w karawanach nie miano jeszcze anten satalitarnych, klimatyzacji,nawigacji,internetu,telefonu i goracego prysznica(tak istnialy takie czasy) a bezdroza Sahary przemierzaly karawany z wielbladami rabowane przez Tuaregow (i innych), w czasach gdy w namiotach nomadow kobiety pustyni wykonywaly swoje zmyslowe tance na kolanach ( z powodu braku miejsca na pozycje stojaca) a w oazach podrozujacych szejkow zabawialy dzielne hurysy (ktore oprocz wielu nieziemskich zalet mialy tez zdolnosc zachowania wiecznego dziewictwa dla kazdego goscia) no wlasnie w tych czasach przez pustynie wedrowala sobie nierzadnica o imieniu Laila. Spieczona pustynia i wedrowka... read more
psyjaciela se znalazl
banana
osiolkowi w zlob podano

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tiznit March 12th 2011

Troche autobusem, troche stopem ale wreszcie jedziemy dalej. Jestesmy jakies 80km na poludnie od Agadiru. Autobusem zabrali nas (za odpowiednia doplata) ale troche bylo stresu na kazdym postoju, bo piesio siedzial w lozy, to znaczy w bagazniku(zob.foto) i na kazdym przystanku otwierano go na osciez i serwowano tearzyk chetnej i zszokowanej gawiedzi ktora zabawiala sie pogwizdujac nawolujac lacznie z rzucaniem w niego szklem(jakis szaleniec sie trafil w Rabacie,nie wiadomo jednak czy wkurzyl sie na psa czy na to ze zostal przylapany wychodzac z autobusu z moim swetrem w rekach). Gdy w Agadirze znowu zaczely sie problemy z taksowkarzami,kierowcami autobusow itd poszlismy na wylotowke. Agadir ciagnie sie parenascie km,bo aglomeracja jest polaczona z kolejnymi wioskami, ale od razu zabrali nas na pikapa i zaczela sie seria fajnych spotkan. A my znowu w drodze wolni i szczesliwi. Niby ... read more
nie wazne czym
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Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tan-Tan May 20th 2009

So I finally got to Tan Tan after almost pissing myself on the bus --- thank God for the police check point (2nd of 3), although the cop seemed pretty disgusted with me when I pissed on the ground next to him. I found a nice hotel (100 DH) and spent today at the beach (I must put on more sunscreen next time!). I continue to be amazed by the honesty of Moroccans (example: I man found and returned my 1 Dihram I dropped on the bus). I've eaten pizza the past two nights, but when will I get the chance again? I just finished “Half of a Yellow Sun”. Excellent! And now I can leave it here. Off to Layounne tomorrow at 10:15 am. ... read more
Tan-Tan beach
Tan-Tan beach 2
Me on Tan-Tan beach

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tiznit May 19th 2009

So all my fears about Ibrahim were false, as the man turned out to be unfailingly honest. On Thursday night (17 May) he got an excellent Berber tagine prepared. When I told him I didn’t want someone who would hassle me for money he seemed offended, say it will be like I am his son on our voyage (ya right! I think). On 18 May Ibrahim wakes me at 5:55am and we have coffee at the hotel. Then off through the Atlas Mountains. Traveled by taxi from Ait Baha to Idaougniolig. At Idaou… we had lunch and I thought I’d been drugged because I got light-headed and paranoid and Ibrahim was laughing with some kids (probably at me, although not for the reason I thought). As soon as I went outside I realised I was fine. ... read more
Berber Village
In a Berber village
From the Truck

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Tan-Tan April 15th 2009

Our First Experiences in… The Western Sahara In early March, we found ourselves headed towards the Western Saharian province of Morocco. We set off from Tiznit in the early afternoon, under cloudy skies. It was one of our poorer efforts in hitchhiking in Morocco; we waited fully two hours before we found the right ride. A Casablacan couple with a rather large and luxurious suv finally picked us up, and drove us some 30 kilometres in total, 15 of which were completely out of their way. The drive took us p about 500 metres, into the foothills of the Anti Atlas, and as we got out of the car, we were greeted by a fierce and wintery wind. It harshley reminded us of our last days in Europe, back in January. We settled into a ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Sidi Ifni February 16th 2008

We left Agadir with a sense of impatience to get out of that tourist town and back into the wilder coastal landscapes - not really wild, of course, since wherever you go in this country you are always surrounded by the curious and friendly Moroccan people, who seem able to materialize out of even the most desolate-looking landscapes. Our destinations were the towns of Massa and Sidi R'Bat on the Oued Massa river, which forms the southern edge of Souss-Massa National Park, a haven for overwintering bids and the enthusiasts who watch them. We'd already seen one of the stellar entries in any birder's lifetime list, the rare bald ibis, in Tamri, but we were curious about what constituted a "national park" in Morocco, and at 80 or so kilometers from Agadir, Massa was an appropriate ... read more
Lunch, anyone?
Bread freshly baked tableside
Breakfast in Souss-Massa

Africa » Morocco » Guelmim » Mirleft February 8th 2008

We woke up to find an infestation of flies in our room. They were everywhere and kept on landing on us. We dressed hurriedly and opened the doors and windows so they could escape. We were told that there were buses to Mirleft and with the memory of our grand taxi ordeal too fresh in our Minds; we deigned to wait for the bus. Overnight the weather had changed from blistering heat to gale force winds. We sat and waited for the bus whilst dust and gravel was blowing everywhere; we were covered and had it in our hair, mouths and all over our clothes. The bus was about as comfortable as the wait for the bus. We did get some seats, but two older women got on so we gave them up. I positioned myself ... read more
Writing On A Hill
Little Donkey
KING TAT!




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