The smell of a place, the first time you take it in, tells you a lot about what you will find there, even if you think you aren’t looking for anything. After managing to slip through the seams of a Spanish national general worker’s strike the day of our flight to Morocco, I stepped off the plane with the scent of warm wind, palm trees, of earth and of well, life coming to me from across the runway in Casablanca. After spending an hour and a half in the tiny, smoke-filled airport with a friendly cat, we found ourselves tumbling out of a van in the middle of Marrakech, a 45-minute flight away from Casablanca. After getting our bags out of the back, dodging a donkey cart full of dirty onions, 15 taxis and a handful
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