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I am open to the guidance of syncronicity
And do not let expectations hinder my path

His Holiness: The Dali Lama

Africa » Namibia » Fish River Canyon April 7th 2015

Last Hurrah A mere 205k trip in our trusty truck takes us to our last campsite in Namibia on the banks of the Orange river. We've made it. Tomorrow we will cross the boarder into South Africa a far different country, far more developed, organized, populated, industrialized. We'll be back on the grid. Driving toward our camp on the Orange River the dusty flat desert suddenly gives way to mile after mile of vivid green fields, so symmetrical and uniform in appearance it could only be big business, organized farming on a massive scale. Suddenly next to the road, born of dust and grit, made of dried reeds from the river bank, as far as the eye can see is the housing of the farm workers. Such dire poverty, no amenities, even their water is not ... read more
Constructing new home
Lovely Gertie

Africa » Namibia » Fish River Canyon April 7th 2015

The next day, somewhat rested despite the stony ground, we set out once again at the crack of dawn as is our custom. Today we we travel a grueling 425k before our next camp site. We pass through Bethany a town remarkable only for having the oldest church. Along the way stop at yet another coffee house purportedly offering 'The Best Apple Strudel in Namibia!' How odd it is to find these antiquated German establishments and attitudes deep in the African hinder land. Even my European co- travels look askance at the proprietors frosty voice and superior attitude sent in my direction. Several overland hours later, sustained by coffee, sandwiches and apple strudel (definitely NOT the best in Namibia) we arrive at our impressive destination: The massive Fish River Canyon, the largest in Africa, second in ... read more
Contemplating time and space
Fish River Canyon

Africa » Namibia » Swakopmund April 1st 2015

Swakopmund Swakopmund, on the coast is the most visited tourist town in Namibia with all the amenities and objects of adventure. Quad bike riding and sand boarding in the dunes, deep sea fishing and dolphin cruises, sky diving! The sky's the limit. Having had enough heat and grit to last a while I opt for the less strenuous sport of browsing the shops In the town center famous for it's German colonial architecture. It is here, innocently picking up snacks for the up coming days on the road, that I accidentally became the official photographer of the Pick and Pay supermarket workers! Having been dominated first by the German and then by the South African governments, Namibia is a young nation just now enjoying it's 25th year as an autonomous independent nation. March 22nd, Independence Day, ... read more
Lovely Grandmothers
2 religions one nation

Africa » Namibia » Sossusvlei April 1st 2015

Namib-Naukluft National Park 49,768 square km is bigger than Switzerland Sossusvlei Dunes 1 well rested beach-strolling day later we are once again en route. Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn 23* south of the equator, entering the area know as Moon Scape, leaving behind the bustling vibrant market, smiling persuasive vendors and stately colonial buildings of bygone German Swakopmund, each mile adds what feels like another several degrees to the temperature. We have met Boseman, theoretically know how to spot and catch lizards, tomorrow in the dunes we will practice our Bushman skills. Tonight we camp in the Namib-Naukluft National Park which is bigger than Switzerland! It is in this area that evidence of Gondwanaland (ancient sub continent) and of the subsequent separation of Australia and South America can be found. We are about an hour away ... read more
Breakfast at base of Dune 45
Franzie in 'The Dress'

Africa March 26th 2015

Bushman/Boesman The Bushmen or San, indigenous people of the Kalahari and Namib deserts, are a study in adaptation of the species. No longer free roaming on ancestral lands their ways of survival have been lost from father to son. At one time hunted as animals, driven off their land, now about 50,000 in number, their blood lines impure, they have settlements, communities in remote regions. The name Bushman comes not from people who live in the bush, but, rather from men who hide behind bushes and shoot intruders with poison arrows. Intruders who were German, Dutch and Afrikaans, invaders from South Africa, now barely a century later, Boesman (of Afrikaans heritage yet a son of the Namibian soil) stands barefoot in the Namib desert and with a voice of pathos and passion yet pragmatic, tells us ... read more
Bushman illustration
Oryx or Gemsbok
Boiling hot!

Africa » Namibia » Swakopmund March 26th 2015

En route to Swakopmund: En route to Swakopmund we stop first at Sorry Sorry, a village of Herrera. Here in stark contrast to the Himba, the women dress in many layered voluminous skirts, shawls and pancake triangular hats, their unique interpretation of 19th century European ladies dress. Tourism is the life blood of so many rural communities here, the women smile, welcome us and offer their lovely wares in the form of patchwork purses and beautiful, colorful, detailed dolls in traditional Herrera dress. On my truck are several women, German, British, Swiss, Russian, American, some more sensitive than others but for the most part generous of spirit and of pocket. At every stop they marvel at the handy work, interacting with smiling, kind, humility, woman to woman, spending liberally, they do the west proud. Scores of ... read more
Me on to of the world
Beautiful Herrera dolls
Sign outside marketplace

Africa » Namibia March 25th 2015

Namibia is vast, we travel unimaginable distances overland, some days up to 450km to our next destination/campsite. En route there is lots of time to think, to elaborate on past stories, there is much more to tell of the Himba: The school is the first building upon entering the buffer Himba village, a small ray of hope...I think Although governed by Namibian laws the Himba are recognized as a special tribe, separate and apart and are therefore allowed to govern themselves in the making of rules that affect and sustain the culture and way of life of their tribe. Very much concerned with the loss of their culture due to rampaging western influence certain practices have been set in place Eg: the children of the buffer village who are around 5 or 6 years old will ... read more
Sorting wares for sale

Africa » Namibia » Erongo March 25th 2015

The Himba Tribe Day 5. After hundreds of Kilometers of dusty roads, game drives and more hot, dusty unpaved roads we make our way to Kamanjab to visit a nearby Himba community. The Himba, a nomadic people have lost huge swaths of their land to mines, farmers, westernization and have suffered greatly being displaced by the wars that raged in nearby Angola. At present count roughly 50,000 Himba live the nomadic life in the northern regions of Namibia while the several stationary settlements, the 'buffer zones' or 'educational tribal centers' are visited by outsiders for a fee...the money collected goes to support orphaned Himba children, the greater community living in the wild and of course the buffer villages themselves, their last line of defense. The buffer villages offer us a glimpse into the lives of these ... read more
Himba woman
Modern Himba hairstyle

Africa » Namibia » Etosha National Park March 20th 2015

Etosha, or Great White Place in the Herero language is a 120km long dry lake, now a salt pan that makes up part of the Kalahari basin. The drive from Windhoek is long and arduous, unimaginably hot, dry, dusty. Others snooze, I sit nose to window fascinated by the sheer expanse of land, the monotony suddenly broken by brilliant yellow carpets of flowers or bold, boastful, impossibly phallic giant termite mounds. Namutoni, first camp just outside the park, like so much of the local culture around here bears the scars of the German war and occupation. In the park is a wonderful flood lit water hole fed by a natural spring, that evening approaching it I see a plaque, the water hole is named for chief Nehale, the head of the Wambo people who were driven ... read more
Thirsty young male
Sibling rivalry
Hyena on the prowl

Africa » Namibia » Windhoek March 14th 2015

Namibia! Namibia! Was there ever a land that seemed so vast, mysterious, remote? Having successfully extracted myself from the cloying, mind numbing world of e cigarettes, cigarettes, designer faded jeans, expensive fine cotton t shirts distressed just so, coffee, caf├ęs, coffee houses, late's and trust fund hippies, I have landed in a vast barren land of apparent sanity.Although nothing could have prepared me for the wall of heat that body slammed me as I stepped onto the shimmering Tarmac, that addictive familiar bubble of excitement and wonder has started it's slow happy percolate deep within my soul.Namibia!What a world o... read more
Meteorite crater
Long road in
Plant life

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