We've spent the last 11 days in the so-called "backpacker nirvana" of Dahab on Egypt's Sinai peninsula. We have mixed feelings about this place. At first, we were a little disappointed - zero beach, coldish ocean, incessant touts ("why not?!"), buzzing flies, and worst of all, the constant gale force wind. However, as time went on, we warmed to it. We found some good snorkel spots, including one with an eel garden (hundreds of eels in the sand that slowly sink into the sand as you dive down to them). This site also had several big eels and we even saw two octopus. The touts began to get the message as they got to know us, and gave up touting. Best of all, the weather changed and the wind dropped almost completely, making the sea calmer
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