I managed to grow very fond of Cuenca in my week or so of study and shoulder recuperation. Nevertheless, with a slight boost to the Bertie lingual capacity and a reasonably intact pair of shoulders I was packed and ready, yet rather sad, to leave. After the usual bland bread, jam and hot chocolate hostel breakfast, the manager gave me a note from an unknown traveller, who had heard of my travel plans from the spanish school. A phonecall later, and I thankfully had travel partners for the Galapagos: Mark and Cas from Brighton, Blighty. Together we bussed to sweaty, brash Guayaquil for the night, and flew the next day. I hadn't known a great deal about the islands, other than the costliness, and from traveller reports that if I was to have high expectations, I
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