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October 21st 2006

Published: October 22nd 2006

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Bertie

STOP!

And enjoy my islands *cough*

I managed to grow very fond of Cuenca in my week or so of study and shoulder recuperation. Nevertheless, with a slight boost to the Bertie lingual capacity and a reasonably intact pair of shoulders I was packed and ready, yet rather sad, to leave.

After the usual bland bread, jam and hot chocolate hostel breakfast, the manager gave me a note from an unknown traveller, who had heard of my travel plans from the spanish school. A phonecall later, and I thankfully had travel partners for the Galapagos: Mark and Cas from Brighton, Blighty. Together we bussed to sweaty, brash Guayaquil for the night, and flew the next day.

I hadn't known a great deal about the islands, other than the costliness, and from traveller reports that if I was to have high expectations, I wouldn't be disappointed. And I wasn't.

After a few days of patient and cheeky negotiations, local sightseeing and relaxing in Puerto Ayora, we had ourselves a goodish deal on an economy class boat for a week-long tour of the islands. In fact, about 30% cheaper than others on board we found out later oops 😊

We met our crew at the

The lazy sunbathers

Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz

dock early, picked our (tiny) cabins and later met the guide, Victor, and other guests for a quick trip to the volcanic 'sinkholes' and a giant tortoise reserve on Santa Cruz. After dinner on board, some drinks with the group in town, and some concerning engine difficulties, we 'sailed' overnight to Isla Rabida, the first stop.

From here on, the tour followed a really enjoyable daily pattern at each new island: breakfast, a wet or dry landing, walk or snorkel, lunch, new landing, walk or snorkel, dinner, cards, drinks and cards. Unfortunately there were a few significant language difficulties in the group, and more than a few very quiet meals, so alot of the fun on board was left to Mark, Cas and I. The rest usually went to their cabins at about 8pm. Yawn.

We saw all the favourites; sea lions and iguanas galore, inumerable birds and fish, reef sharks and rays by the shoreline, penguins, dolphins, bull sharks, sea turtles, one we were lucky to see nesting early morning on Floreana. Each island presented a unique landscape, some endemic species, and the ubiquitous sea lion welcoming committee. Here is a good website with more detail on

Galapagos tortoises from Isla Española

the islands and species.

At the end of the week we were pretty tired, yet sad to finish the tour. So we took a crazy little 3hr rough outboard journey to Isabella, the largest and one of the most amazing islands of the archipelago. In perfect and really lucky weather, we took a day trip to volcan sierra negra for some more amazing lava landscapes and dodgy photo ops.

The pace on Isabella was well suited to elderly retirement, which was nice, but with a lack of culinary options and malnutrition beginning to set in, we returned to Santa Cruz and the inevitable flight out. With a farewell-for-now wink to Guayaquil-bound Mark and Cas, I continued on to Quito, and my first hot shower in 2 weeks!

Additional photos below

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