Bertie
good teeth and firm buttocks Joined: February 24th 2006
Logged in: June 2nd 2010
Logged in: June 2nd 2010
Travel Blog Posts
Bungy
I'm sure I didn't really do Chile justice by seeing only a bit of the south and Santiago (for 3 hours before my flight). Though I can say that I had positive vibes from my short time in the capital, and that hiking in the south was definite Sth America highlight. Crossing the Andes from Mendoza was a spectacular final bus ride, and a fitting way to end my travels on the continent. NZ has served well to cushion the culture shock of my return across the date line while allowing me to remain a traveller for another week. It was a good week too. Auckland I think is a fairly pleasant city, and it also has a 'c' in it which I'd forgotten about. Locals take fashion very seriously, have an abundance of Japanese restaurants, ... read more
La Resurreccion
The last week or so has been mostly a bus ride as I've attempted to cram as much of Argentina as possible into my remaining time. Fortunately the buses are the main mode of transport here and as such are plentiful, clean, comfortable, and cheaper than buying flights last minute. Don't think McCaffertys or Greyhound when you think bus, because by comparison our bus services are prehistoric. Here's an example. In Buenos Aires I got the feeling that Argentines aren't the happiest lot. I guess they have had a rough ride in recent years, but I wonder if that alone explains how bitter most appear to be. In any case, they seem to be staging an economic comeback if the amount of cash I've gone through in a short time is anything to go by. Maybe ... read more
Glacier (from flight)
It seems perhaps I have saved the most special part of the Bertie adventure to the end. The patagonian Andes are indescribably beautiful, so I'm not sure how to describe the past couple of weeks. Arriving in southern Chile after the long haul from Quito called for a big re-adjustment; culturally, socially, environmentally and economically. Also, there I was thinking my Spanish was fine, my Spanish is very gooood... I learn it from a booook. and then I heard Chilean Spanish. Que? Patagonia is a vast, bleak, and at times strikingly beautiful bit of the planet. The clear flight from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas over the icefields gave me goosebumps. The landing, on the other hand, left me feeling about 10 years older. It does get pretty windy here, but on the whole, I think ... read more
My new beanie
After the wonderful Galapagos, I admit to feeling a little down about going solo again. Having travel buddies in Mark and Cas made the trip that much more special. Yet in Quito being solo didn't last that long. Within a couple of hours I found myself having dinner with another solo traveller after a smile and that wonderfully simple question "where are you from?" If only it was so simple back home. Strangely though, every second traveller I meet is a volunteer from some community or scientific project. Ecuador seems to be the volunteer vacuum of the continent. Quito was more pleasant than expected. After a day or two of some wandering around the old town and new town, I just floated off to a town in the Oriente (jungle) region called Tena for a few ... read more
STOP!
I managed to grow very fond of Cuenca in my week or so of study and shoulder recuperation. Nevertheless, with a slight boost to the Bertie lingual capacity and a reasonably intact pair of shoulders I was packed and ready, yet rather sad, to leave. After the usual bland bread, jam and hot chocolate hostel breakfast, the manager gave me a note from an unknown traveller, who had heard of my travel plans from the spanish school. A phonecall later, and I thankfully had travel partners for the Galapagos: Mark and Cas from Brighton, Blighty. Together we bussed to sweaty, brash Guayaquil for the night, and flew the next day. I hadn't known a great deal about the islands, other than the costliness, and from traveller reports that if I was to have high expectations, I ... read more
Crumbling doorway
Huacachina turned out to be a true highlight of my travels so far. I'd never have thought riding in a dune buggy and sandboarding would tickle my whisker as much as it did, in fact it was so much fun that I had to stay another day and go again, just like theme park rollercoasters. Well didn't I learn a lesson in repeat experiences. I took to sandboarding like a llama takes to scuba-diving but that didn't stop me heading full pelt down a 45 degree dune, coming off (of course) and pretty much wrecking my shoulder. Not a good bit for a backpacker to wreck. You'd think I'd have learnt that anything that involves strapping oneself to a board and moving at speed downhill is not my thing. In everyone's favourite city, Lima, I got ... read more
Grrrr!
Apologies in advance for the high(er) level of whinge and generalist economic blather in the following blog. Yes I realise you're all mostly at work and I have nothing to complain about. In Cusco I realised I was wrong to whinge about the prices of tours to the Blanca and Huayhuash. Prices this side of Peru are clearly a bit out of control; but so is the tourist demand. Again I tried my trick of putting up a notice for the Salkantay trek, this time in the office of a place called South American Explorers - said to be a good meeting place for independent trekkers. Anyway I filled some time in wait with a trip to the ruins and market at Pisac with some Frenchies, at Sacsayhuaman, and in general rumination and pondering at what ... read more
Happy campers
Ahh the mountains. What is it about altitude and seeing jagged snowy peaks in the sky that gets me excited? I'm sitting here in Huaraz typing and habitually glancing out the window at Huascaran of the Cordillera Blanca. This is the mountain range I'd read about and which inspired me to make the RTW trip in the first place. It's an odd feeling to be here nearly 6 months on, still with twinges of the travel fatigue, still with excitement about further travel. Lima was a bit of a rude shock and not a place I felt inspired to spend more than a day. In fact it took me a couple of days to reconcile what I saw, particularly in the impoverished camps of outer reaches of the city during the bus trip north. Aclimatising to ... read more
Oi Sur America!
When suffering a lack of energy after Europe, Rio is certainly one place to get a fresh dose! The place is for me a collision of Manila and Surfer's Paradise. An unhealthily large and economically imbalanced population, a pretty good beach, faded resort atmosphere, decaying suburbs, but with those famous beautiful granite peaks that make you pinch yourself as you bodysurf a wave to the Ipanema shoreline. Like most travellers, I had a fair bit of trepidation about venturing far from the gated and guarded hostal quarters, but managed the usual activities - of course the beach, the sugarloaf cablecar, a strangle mugging, a football match, food poisoning. Joking about the mugging. Though thinking of it did prevent me heading out too often with the camera, so sorry not many photos. Not sure as usual where ... read more
Adios Europa
Apologies in advance for the slight soppiness or hippiness of the following entry.. Its been a really tough week, not in terms of travel, more my battle with the evils of travel fatigue. As much as I needed and cherished the time in Potsdam, it gave me a taste of a normal lifestyle for a while. This is important on a RTW trip I suppose, but leaving that normality and all the affection has left me feeling quite drained, and has provided me with some emotional baggage. Add to that the fact that it is now five months since leaving Aus, and with the 'mountains' still in front of me, my level of enthusiasm is not what I had hoped. The last few days in Madrid and Salamanca have been really pleasant. Its soooo hot, but ... read more
