joe and nos

frayed_edge

joe and nos

Newly wed after 8 years of waiting we have abandoned our jobs and headed off to Latin america to do some volunteering and learn Spanish! We might also drink a little and take in the odd ruin.



South America » Argentina » Misiones » Iguazú National Park January 26th 2007

Well the time has come to leave South America and finish our 6-month trip with a few days in New York. I am gutted to be honest because amongst other things I flipping love Argentina. Far from my preconceptions of a country filled with dirty cheating footballers (which it is) and people with a dislike of the English because of the Falklands war, it is a beautiful place with the nicest people you could meet. Buenos Aires is one of my, if not my absolute, favourite cities in the world and Iguazu falls have to be seen to be believed. I even managed to fullfil a dream and watch some of the afore-mentioned dirty cheating footballers playing in a game between Boca Juniors and River Plate. Arriving at Buenos Aires is a bit of a culture ... read more
Tango show
More falls
More falls again

South America » Argentina » Chubut » Gaiman January 18th 2007

Without a doubt, my main reason for wanting to travel in South America was to visit Patagonia, in search of the Welsh. My head was full of romantic notions of the heroic Welsh settlers of 1865 , crossing the Atlantic in search of a land where they could preserve their language, way of life and religion, free from persecution. We took the bus North from Rio Gallegos to Trelew, and could not help but wonder, during that 24 hours of nothingness, what possessed them to choose such a dry and barren land, so disimilar to Wales? Diolch i Dduw for the Tehuelche Indians, without whose help, those first immigrants would have starved to death. We headed straight for Gaiman, the most Welsh of the villages. On the bus we met a girl called Eirian, sporting a ... read more
Hiroes i'r Iaith Gymraeg!
Tea for two
Could be Wales ...

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine January 9th 2007

Travelling down to the southern most tip of South America we have embarked upon an epic journey through Patagonia. We have travelled through the most spectacular scenery by aeroplane, bus and mostly foot. We have experienced extremes of hot and cold and moved from crystalline mountain lakes to thunderous collapsing glaciers. The trip has even managed to reconnect me with my secondary school education. Last but not least we have crossed into Argentina, the final country of our south American voyage, where we are getting to grips with a new variation of Spanish and an even greater aversion to vegetarian food than previously encountered. Unable to take the Navimag ferry down to Patagonia we instead opted for yet another internal flight down to Punta Arenas. This cold, windy but attractive city sits on the Magellan straights, ... read more
A penguin family
In the Shackleton bar
The Cuernos peaks

South America » Chile » Araucanía » Pucón January 1st 2007

Leaving Santiago was a wrench as we had such a good time with Penelope, James, Henry and Isobel. Dipping our toes back into the murky world of flash-packing we have moved further down south into the Chilean Lake District or little Deutschland as it could be called. Were it not for the towering snow-capped volcanoes dotted around the region you could really believe you were in the south of Germany. The lush green surroundings are very European but more importantly the whole place is full of Germans. The first of many influxes from Germany took place in the mid 19th century and as a consequence, much of the architecture would be more at home in Bavaria than Chile. Many of the shop signs are in German and you're as likely to find apfel strudel on the ... read more
Aaaaaargh!
The intrepid mountaineer..
Before the clouds came in...

South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Salar de Uyuni December 26th 2006

Well, it's the time of year to wish everybody a Happy Christmas and New Year, although sitting in Santiago in 32 degree heat, it doesn´t feel as Christmassy as it does at home. Whilst we imagine eveyone at home spent the build up to Christmas cozily eating and drinking in pubs and front rooms, we have had 2 epic journeys (for very different reasons) and an awesome trip across the Salar de Uyuni into Chile. We have seen some of the strangest but most spectacular scenery possible, crossing salt flats, vividly coloured lakes filled with flamingoes and passing smoking volcanoes before heading into parched desert. We are now staying with Penny, James, Isobel and Henry and are really enjoying being around old friends in a cool family atmosphere for Christmas. Our fears of not being able ... read more
More salt anyone?
Isla del pescada
Flamingos at 4000 m

South America » Bolivia » Santa Cruz Department » Santa Cruz December 16th 2006

As our time in Santa Cruz draws to a close the political crisis in the country seems to have been escalating at an alarming rate. We had been keeping our fingers crossed that it would stay calm until we leave here on Saturday. Given the nature of our trip so far, I guess it was inevitable that the demonstation which taxi drivers would have us believe will spark a civil war, falls on Friday, the day before we are due to leave. Now taxi drivers often have their fingers on the pulse of what's going on but I think they are prone to exaggerate as it keeps the cab conversation going, so hopefully all this talk of civil war is just a bit of dramatisation. The region of Santa Cruz, of which the capital is the ... read more
3 amigos
In the shed
The classroom

South America » Bolivia » Santa Cruz Department » Santa Cruz December 3rd 2006

To say that we got off to less than an auspicious start in Santa Cruz would be putting it mildly! After surviving an erupting volcano, an earthquake, an avalanche, the world's most dangerous road, the world's most dangerous plane and the jungle's most dangerous snake, Joe broke his arm playing football on our second day here. He said he did it during an "ambitious, overhead swivel chest flick". I called it a (luckily) "non displaced fracture of his left distal radius" (medi-geek strikes again). We had suspicions with regards to our home stay from the start. The family lived in seven bedded mansion, with six cars parked on the driveway. The twenty year old son drove a sports car. He also happened to be the "executive director" of the charity who was arranging our voluntary work. ... read more
Queen of Shebah syndrome
Santa Cruz Cathedral
The kids at Luz del Mundo

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Yungas Road November 21st 2006

It was a real wrench to leave Cococabana, a real wrench, but we did make our way along a beautiful road to the insanely busy city of La Paz, the world’s highest capital city. The journey was notable for having to get off the bus as it drove onto what looked like half a boat to ferry it across a lake while we were shipped across in a little boat that provided enough petrol fumes to make you think you were flying across. It was only when arriving at La Paz that we started to realise that Bolivia seems significantly poorer than other South American countries. The bumpy mud and stone road would normally have felt at home winding through a rural peasant village than through a massive slum into a major capital city. The traffic ... read more
Down death road
Death Road
The plane from hell

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » Copacabana November 11th 2006

Well, what a week..it's not often that you find true love and a slice absolute tranquility in one week. Copacabana might not have the beaches of it more famous Brazilian namesake but nestled on the banks of the world's highest navigable fresh water lake, with temperatures well into the 30´s, it doesn´t get more relaxed. Leaving Cusco proved to be a bit of a mission involving being lied to by numerous dodgy bus companies. The first attempt to leave was supposedly on a brand new direct bus. The reality was a dirty stinking old bus with a lack of seat belts, sitting in front of a selotaped together smashed upper windscreen which only needed the smear of blood to identify the cause. After the 3rd stop in the 1st five minutes to pick people up we ... read more
Freshly plucked from the lake
Reed huys on a reed island
The fiesta

South America » Peru » Cusco » Machu Picchu November 4th 2006

Well, it is billed as one of the highlights of South America and the Inca Trail has not disappointed at all. After a few days exploring Cuzco and the surrounding area we have braved (or luxuriated our way along) the original Inca Trail to the religious city of Machu Picchu and are now safely back in our hotel with hot water to ease our painful muscles. To get to the Inca Trail you start at the ancient city of Cuzco which was the capital of the vast Inca empire. The draw of Machu Picchu means that the city is now a major tourist hub but despite the hundreds of hotels, bars and restaurants it is a beautiful city that doesn´t have the look or feel of a place ruined by tourism. The Spanish conquistadors destroyed the ... read more
Machu Picchu
Cuzco
The streets of Cuzco




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