SA 2023 Exploring the Highlands, the Amazonian Jungle, and Coastal Peru.

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Family Reunion in Peru

During our month in Peru, we were fortunate to travel to all three of Peru’s geographical regions: the Peruvian highlands, the Amazonian jungle, and the coastal region. The first two regions were explored with family, as they were the sites selected for our pre-arranged family reunion. I have compiled all three into one entry, so this post is far too long. My apologies, but I simply did not have time to write a short one. I would suggest just passing on this post, unless you have a lot of patience and interest in Peru, as this is primarily an information based blog. The philosopher returns for the next entry. 😊

The Peruvian Highlands

Our first and most extensive explorations took place during the two weeks we spent around Cusco, Peru, during which we visited several Incan ruins. Prior to this visit, Machu Picchu was the only ruin I had heard of, or expected to see. However, after visiting several ruins around Cusco, that soon proved to be inaccurate. There were many other ruins, each of which had its own character. Machu Picchu was primarily a site for spiritual gatherings of the higher echelons of Incan society. Some ruins were designed specifically for agricultural purposes, with much evidence of highly advanced experimental farming in diverse climate conditions. One ruin was an ancient salt mine, still in production today. Other ruins were small cities. And often entire modern cities, such as Cusco itself, and neighboring towns Pisac and Olantaytambo, were rebuilt upon the ancient ruins. It was evident from high upon the still intact Olantaytambo ruins that the entire valley was once a bustling urban metropolis, with smaller settlements stretching throughout the entire Sacred Valley. What was most evident was how advanced this Inca culture had once been, with few questions answered as to how these massive ruins constructed of immense boulders, built by human power alone, came about to be. It was all both perplexing and humbling.

Our next excursion was to Polccoya, a half day’s incredibly beautiful car ride from Cusco, where we saw stunning changes of landscape punctuated by extensive mountainside terraces long buried, populated primarily by multitudes of lamas and alpacas roaming at these high altitudes - and every one of them was constantly eating. Primarily rural, agricutural areas, we travelled through only small villages and one very authentic Peruvian small town. We were the only tourists in sight, and absolutely no one spoke English. Fortunately Tanner, our delegated Head of Communications, covered it beautifully with his fluent Spanish. I could have mumbled through communicating, but it would have been painful for all involved. Tanner and Annie pointed out that this experience was far more representative of travel in Peru than our recent time in Cusco had been, for Cusco is Peru’s largest tourist attraction.

This twelve hour road trip was, we agreed, one of our favorite excursions during our time in the Andes, but without doubt the highlight of the day was the visit to Polccoya Mountain itself, otherwise called Rainbow Mountain, known for its incredible colours and spectacular landscape. There are two such « Rainbow Mountains » in the province. The other is nearer to Cusco, with far more accessible roads, and subsequently has 1,500 tourist visitors every day. Our choice was accessible only by small mountain roads, comparable to mountain logging roads back in Canada, and involved over two additional hours travel time, but we were literally the only tourists hiking the trail that day. And when we hiked to the top of Polccoya’s neigboring mountain, where we reached an altitude of 16,000 feet (for context, airplanes typically fly at 30,000 feet), we heard in the distance the Andean flute playing of one of the local residents whom we could see in the distance. To say it was magical is an understatement. What a privilege and a joy to have able to share this experience with family.

The Amazonian Jungle

Our final excursion in Peru was to Puerto Muldonado, and into the Amazon rain forest. At this point, we were only the four of us, our immediate family - Tanner, Annie, Stan, and I - as Stan’s sister had returned to Canada after the adventures in the highlands. This trip consisted of a four day tour of the Amazonian jungle, traveling primarily by boat up and down the river, as well as partaking in a few jungle walks, both day and night. And yes, fishing. We actually caught some pirana - well Annie the Queen of fishing did. She caught two. But Tanner and I managed to catch only our aquarium childhood pets - tetra fish. Well, at least now I know exactly where they were imported from.

We saw much wildlife - three species of large troops of monkeys flying through the trees, many Caymans (small alligators), a few capibura ( the world’s largest rodent), poison dart frogs, some very large tarantulas which our guide chose to pick up and stretch out for us, and the tracks of a very large boa constrictor who had recently been in the marshland we were fishing near. But alas, no boa wanted to be introduced to us that day. We also saw many birds. We saw a large, black capped, black legged stork, several herons, vultures, and « stinky birds » named for the foul smell they exude as part of their three stomach anatomy, which allows for the rotting of food ingested. I believe it was part of their natural defense system. And of course many mackaws, parrots, and parakeets who gather at special mineral rich clay banks to supplement their diets.

Everything, we learned, has an evolutionary purpose, and many symbiotic relationships that exist amongst species repeatedly exemplified this.

One such example comes to mind. It was the curious « friendship » that was shared between the poison dart frog and the tarantula, whom we found cohabiting the same log crevice. This frog actually has been given this name because its poison, placed on the arrow tips of the hunting darts, rendered the hunting darts of ancient tribes people far more lethal to the target prey. Our guide explained that the tararantula benefits from the frog’s presence as it eats a parasite that lays its eggs in the tarantula’s hair, which, if left unchecked, would eventually kill its host. The frog benefits as the tarantula protects it from its predators.

All of these experiences were excellent, but two special events come to mind. One was simply floating quietly for an hour on a narrow tributary of the river, enjoying the avian soundtrack of the jungle, the mottled sun, and the lush rainforest wall of green riverbank that engulfed us, while fishing with Tom Sawyer rods shaped from branches strung with a line and a simple hook. Tanner was the only one who caught anything that day, but it was such a peaceful and profoundly beautiful time that it really did not matter.

The other event though, really wins the prize. It was the boat ride down the river we took at 3:30 a.m., under a sky alive with stars. Cozy and tucked in under warm blankets in our open skiff, we cruised down the river in complete darkness. The boat driver, we were told, knew this river intimately, and we could just relax and enjoy the ride. So we abandoned all worries, trusted the driver and the company responsible for our safety, and blissed out on this entirely new and beautiful experience. This would of course violate all water navigation laws back in Canada, but we were not in Canada, and it was, hands down, the most memorable moment of the entire Amazon expedition.

Exploring Peru’s Third Geographical Region, the Coastal Region / Lima

With family, we enjoyed the geography of the highlands of Peru, experiencing an introduction to Andean and Incan culture in the process, as well as enjoying the Amazonian jungle geographical region. But on our own, we experienced some of Peru’s third geographical region, the coast, when spending over ten days in Peru’s capital city, Lima, situated on the Atlantic ocean.

We appreciated the sweeping ocean views and walkways of Miraflores, the colonial architecture of Lima’s Central Plaza district, the color and artistic energy that is Barranco, the splendour of the Magic Water Show, the vibrant street culture that comes alive on weekends, and the streets alive with people eating, walking dogs, cycling, or making music late into the evening. Lima, as we experienced it, was beautiful.

Our intent had been to explore the city far more extensively, beginning with our traditional city bus tour, but I unfortunately became ill from something ingested upon arrival, and the first four days of our final week in Lima, Peru were spent doing little more than sleeping and conversing with the white bathroom god, so our extensive city exploration plans were somewhat thwarted.

We left on a very good note - perhaps the best closing note - that of wishing we could stay longer in this beautiful city.

We are so privileged to have experienced these connections with family and new friends, the cultural and environmental teachings, and the astounding diverse natural beauty of this country. We remain deeply grateful for it all.

Thank you for your interest in our travels and philosophical musings.

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Comments

[Gail]

Peru
Wow! That was a really great blog. I had tears in my eyes at the end- very moving as I could tell that you were deeply touched by your whole travel experience, and also profoundly grateful- can’t ask for more than that from a travel adventure. So happy for all of you . Such wonderful memories made and deep connections forged. Many thanks for sharing with us. Hugs, Gail and Kim Ps. I was telling Brian and Carol about your trip and will be forwarding your blog to them as well:)

[The Dreamchasers]

Peru
Can't ask for a better review than tears in the eyes of those reading my blog. I think I may have had years in my eyes when writing it, so I am very pleased that sentiment was communicated. It was a magical experience on so many levels, but all of them involved connection - to our family, to the human family, and to the beautiful environment that is our home on this planet. The tears are the gratitude at being able to experience these connections.