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South America » Peru » Ica » Nazca » Nazca Lines September 11th 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ Colca Canyon …………………The travelling from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon was a 6-hour trip along a bumpy, dusty road going past countryside reminiscent of Mongolia or Ladakh. I have had so much dust in the last few days that I’m congested with the coughs and a sore throat. The Canyon, said to be twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, is more than 3,400m deep for more than 100km and is the territory of the majestic Condor. Well what a disappointment this tour has been so far. There's about 24 of us on a really slow, large bus (instead of a small group on a minibus as promised) and the guide only talks if you ask her something and then she doesn't now the answer! After 6hrs (instead of 4) we are ... read more
On the Plains at High Altitude
Condor
Heading back to town

South America » Peru » Arequipa September 10th 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ I decided to head off to Arequipa by plane, and give Lake Titacaca a miss, with a 7am, half hour flight. The view from the window was not amazing as they were dirty and the sun was shining on my side. Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city with 1 million people. It is set amongst the desert with the volcano El Misti (5822m) forming a close backdrop with other peaks. Arequipa is at 2,325m. The city has a nice Plaza de Aramas but it did not have the same feel as Cusco as it is busier. I spent a bit of time getting quotes on Colca Canyon tours and wandering around the Monastery of Santa Catalina. What a fascinating place. It’s worth coming to Arequipa just to see it. It has an ... read more
Doorways in the Monastery of Santa Catalina
Monastery of Santa Catalina
Monastery  of Santa Catalina

South America » Peru » Cusco » Inca Trail September 9th 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ We were awoken at just after 4 am for the final dash to the Sun Gate to see Machu Pichu unfold itself at sunrise. It is about 1 ½ hour’s walk which is a bit up and down with the usual Inca steps. What I want to know is if the Incas could build such amazing precise walls and architecture why didn’t they make their trails a bit more even. You always have to look where you are walking and make those split second decisions to change the height of your step and where you put your feet. Not always so easy when it’s another early morning start. It was a quick pace to the Sun Gate set by the English girls in a bit of friendly rivalry to beat the Uruguays. ... read more
One of our Cooks for the trek
Sunrise at the Sungate
Just to Prove I was There!

South America » Peru » Cusco » Machu Picchu September 6th 1999

…….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ “This is deservedly the most famous footpath in Sth America. It has everything: gorgeous mountain scenery, cloud forest and lush sub-tropical vegetation with numerous species of flowers, a stunning destination. There are Inca paving stones, Inca stairways, an Inca tunnel, and of course five sets of ruins, including Machu Picchu itself.” (Bradt) During the busy dry season months of June to September, up to a thousand people a day come to visit the ‘Lost City of the Incas’. Machu Pichu remains a mysterious site, never revealed to the conquering Spaniards and virtually forgotten until 1911 when Bingham, an American historian, found it in his search for the lost city of Vilcabamba, the last strong hold of the Incas. The site when it was found was very much overgrown. It appears that M.P. ... read more
Arriving at the trailhead
First rest point
Lining up for the pass

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 3rd 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ Today was a day of getting things done. I decided to do the parasailing course- 3 days starting 6am to 11am and then some training at night. (US$95). There are only two of us doing it. The first day is running on a slope to get the idea. The 2nd day is going off an 8m hill. Day 3 is off at 800m. I didn’t sleep terribly well knowing that I had to get up at 5.15am to be ready. What an unforgettable experience! I hope I haven’t bitten off more than I can chew. We drove in a minibus- the two of us and three staff for about 45 minutes out to an amazing hill overlooking the Sacred Valley with snow capped peaks. We were about 3,800m. We even saw the ... read more
With Joseph in Cusco
Joseph resting up for another attempt

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 1st 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU.........It was absolutely freezing last night. Trying to read my thermometer was difficult but I think it was -10 degrees at least. When I got up at 6.30am, Martin was tucked in amongst his rocks and all you could see was his nose and eyes. He still had colour in his face, which was a relief. Puddles of water were frozen over and everything was white with frost. We must have been fairly high already (& that’s why it was so cold ) as trekking up the Campa Pass at 5000m did not seem as high a climb as yesterday...demanding never the less with taking one small step with every breath. Even when one is standing around or lying in bed sometimes you feel out of breath. We got to the top ... read more
With Martin at Campa Pass
From Campa Pass
Flavio

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco August 31st 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU.........Martin woke me at 6am I think as it was light and he would have been so cold as the ground was white with frost and small bits of water had frozen ice sheets on them. It's crazy, thinking of Martin, but my problem during the night was that the TWO compressed mattresses I have are not enough for my hip and I got too hot during the night! The cooking stove seems to take forever to boil...because of the altitude I guess. After breakfast of a stale roll (again) and a carrot, we set off about 8.30. Martin had made lunch of rice and beans so that we wouldn't have to unpack the horse. We came across a Peruvian guy with an American accent who was travelling alone like me. He lives ... read more
Spectacular turquoise lake (Ausangatecocha)
From the top of Palamoni Pass
Llama looking cute

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco August 28th 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU..................“This 5-6 day hike has everything: herds of llamas and alpacas, traditionally dressed Indians, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, ice caves, and even vicunas. Not surprisingly it is popular with trekkers. The route takes you right round the massif of Ausangate and over three high passes before returning you to your starting point, the small village of Tinqui.” Bradt Ausangate is South East of Cusco. The mountain, which is revered by the Incas, is actually a collection of high mountains with Ausangate the highest at 6372m. The whole area lies above the tree line. .................................................... Distance about 80km Altitude 3,800m to 5,100m Rating Difficult Timing 5 days ................................................... I met down at the Top Vacations Trekking office at 8.30am. No one ... read more
Martin's dad's hut
Martin with his Dad
First night's camp

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco August 24th 1999

1999……….6wks SOUTH AMERICA-ARGENTINA, PERU............ In Cusco there is a ticket (US$10 for 10 days) that allows you into a variety of sites, Cathedrals, Monasteries, and Museums etc. I first went to the Cathedral which commenced being built in 1559 and took 100 years to complete. The Cathedral is actually 3 churches in one. The earliest dates back from 1536. In the Sacristy there were several people doing restoration work to restore the wooden carved statues. There are many splendid side chapels etc. There are many paintings from the 16th/17th cent. This church was an over the top experience of religious fervour with blood and guts everywhere, self flagellation, Mary dressed up like the doll on top of the Christmas tree with tears rolling down her cheeks and that guy on the stick everywhere looking very miserable ... read more
Charming people
Cusco Weaver
The Battered Christ




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