Blogs from Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 92

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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate January 16th 2006

Shortly after arriving in El Calafate , we were struck at the unusual clouds in the area!... read more
Cloud 1

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate January 14th 2006

I was sitting in the window seat of a restaurant, just snacking and watching the world go by when I noticed nearly everyone going past was staring in at me!…I was getting a bit self conscious….was it something I was eating? bits of food hanging out of my mouth? fly undone?…..later, as I was walking home, I looked at the window and realised it was a mirror!..everyone had been looking at themselves…hmmm This is totally a tourist town, hordes of touries from all over the world…. cars, buses, bikes of course, 4x4s, trucks, all manner of tour vehicles, and all manner of tour shops, clothing stores (everyone needs a fleece here!) restaurants and bars…only one laundry and a 2 day wait, can’t find a barber shop. When the cruise ships come in the population bursts out ... read more
If Dubbya Comes!

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Calafate December 22nd 2005

We caught the bus to El Calafate in Argentina, a short 6 hour journey where we planned to go to see the Perito Moreno Glacier and then move further Northern towards Santa Cruz our Christmas destination. When we arrived we went throught the usual procedures, find somewhere to stay, book tickets to leave then organise trips. El Calafate is quite a touristy little town so finding somewhere to stay was quite easy, however trying to get out on a tight time schedule proved a little more difficult. We tried to book air tickets but unless we wanted to pay about 400 pounds each for Business Class then we could forget that option till the 23rd December. We then went to find a Bus all bus journeys are at least 2/3 days with a hotel break and ... read more
Perito Moreno #2
Perito Moreno #3
Perito Moreno #4

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén December 15th 2005

El Chaltén is a new town, inaugurated only 20 years ago, known as "the capital of trekking", due to the amount of tourists who come here to do just that. And the truth is that one cannot deny that the landscapes are indeed beautiful. Connected to El Calafate by a gravel road, the 135 mile, five hour journey seems never-ending. The incessant shaking and rattling of the bus makes everything wobble like a strawberry jelly (note to self: MUST lose weight at any cost), it is impossible to rest, read, nor entertain yourself in any other way. We understand this is what awaits us in Bolivia for example (where only about 5% of the roads are paved) so we guess it was good practice for what's to come... When we arrived at our destination we had ... read more
Planning the route / planeando la ruta
Wild flower / Flor silvestre
Good balance required / Se precisa buen equilibrio


Now I'm not one to be easily impressed, and after three or four of months contsant travel you can become a bit jaded by what you see, so when I say that I Moreno Glacier was one ice cube that was worth travelling half-way round the world to see, you can take that as being an exclamation of admiratrion of the highest degree. Seriously, we've seen quite a few glaciers on this trip, and I've been heli-hiking on the fox glacier in New Zealand, but compared to Moreno Glacier all the others put together were the equivalent of an ice cube in Antartica. This thing looked like it was designed as a backdrop to some scene in the Lord of the Rings, and to be standing on a boat 200 meters from the face of it ... read more
Fire Flower
North Face
Yellow Flower

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén December 14th 2005

I've decided that the hardest thing about hiking in the backcountry at El Chalten is the constant stream of other gringos who walk past saying Hola, Hola, Hola ... I tried everything from G'day to Cheers, but I got the same response time and time again ... just Hola. The only satisfaction I could derive from this situation was when I replied with 'Buenos Tardes' ... for some reason that seemed to throw most people. Oh what joy there is in the simple things in life. As always, I start in the middle of the story. We managed to escape Coihaique despite the public holiday. As an aside, I read somewhere that there were two cities called 'Coyhaique' or some such, so to avoid confusion with directions they changed the spelling of this town to Coihaique ... read more
Dog of the Day
Ferry Crossing
Cool Dude

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén December 14th 2005

Alle.... Nach einer etwas laengeren Pause also endlich mal wieder das Neueste aus dem Sueden Suedamerikas: Ich schreibe euch gerade aus unserem Hostel in Calafate, rechts von mir ein Kamin; wenn ich aus der grossen Fensterfront vor mir schaue, sehe ich den tuerkisfarbenen Lago Argentino und dahinter einen Andengipfel an den Naechsten gereiht. Wir sind gestern hier angekommen und geniessen seitdem die Vorzuege die eine Stadt, auch wenn es nur eine kleine Stadt ist, zu bieten hat: Supermaerkte in denen man von A-Z alles kaufen kann, Weihnachtsdekorationen in den Schaufenstern, Eiscafes, Coffeebars, ja sogar Taxis und einen Busbahnhof gibt es hier. Und natuerlich endlich wieder eine Internetverbindung die erschwinglich ist. Wie ihr euch wahrscheinlich mittlerweile denken koennt gab es all das in den letzten Wochen nicht. Dafuer gab es majestaetisch wirkende Berge, glasklare Gebirgsbaeche, t... read more


El Calafate is a one horse town. It's pretty much been solely built on the back of one tourist attraction - the Perito Moreno glacier. Why such a fuss over one glacier when there are hundreds of them spreading out from the South Patagonian ice sheet? Why indeed does the glacier have the honour of bearing the name of one of Argentina's most revered pioneers, Francisco Moreno? Well, it's because the glacier is a stunner. OK, it's not the biggest glacier, but it's probably the most dramatic in South America. The PM glacier lurches out of the mountains and out into the milky meltwater of Lago Argentina, the biggest freshwater lake in the country. Its face is between 40 and 80 metres. It's an awesome sight to behold - 80m of baby blue sheer ice wall. ... read more
The majesty of the Perito Moreno Glacier
Teetering on the edge
Dancing with death


Mon.5th. Dec. Santiago is quite a big airport, but all the internal flight passengers are herded into 1 queue - absolute chaos. The pilot must have been having a bad day too, because the landing was really rough. Bumped into 2 Canadians from la Paz. It´s great to see familiar faces. We left them at Punta Arenas, the furthest south we´re going, but near enough to see the penguins. We haven´t made many mistakes planning the route, but this is one of them! The pace is utterly miserable. After 2 hours walking around in the bitter wind, looking for a place to stay, we decide that the penguins aren´t worth it , and catch the next bus to Porto Natales. 4 hours later and this place didn´t look much better, that is until a nice lady ... read more


See some movies associated with this blog After a week in Ushuaia, we took what will be our last flight in a long time, onwards to El Calafate and Glaciers National Park, natural treasure which was declared Patrimony of Humankind by UNESCO in 1981. El Calafate is still a small town (we say "still" since, due to demand, it continues to grow, goodness knows what it will be like in a few years). Although some 50 miles from the Park, it is the nearest town to it. This means it depends pretty much entirely on tourism, so you can imagine that they squeeze you like a lemon. We had already been warned more than once that the prices are ridiculously higher in this place, and it was no exaggeration. So we decided that it was the ... read more
Landing in El Calafate / Aterrizando en El Calafate
Before the attack / Antes del ataque
Under attack / Bajo ataque




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