Blogs from Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 89

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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén March 9th 2006

Luckily this time no real crazy stories, although my time in the Park Los glaciares was fabulous. First I went to El Chalten, where they have one of the most beautiful mountain scenery I've ever seen. But more than a day hike I could'nt do because of the bad weather and my complaining feet (after the 5 day trip being lost!!) 2 days after I took a bus (for a change) to El Calefate, home to the Perito Moreno Glaciar. With some other backbackers, we rented a car and drove in the evening to the Glaciar, where we camped! All night long we heard the sound of big Ice chuncks braking off the glaciar, Amazing!! Then I took one day of relaxing before I headed back to Chile, to the famous Torres del Paine, At Torres ... read more
Fitz roy
Sunrise at Torres
Torres del Paine

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén March 7th 2006

Fuimos hasta El Chalten todo por ruta 40 la ruta mitica de la Argentina, pero parece que nadie la recorre, me dedique a contar los autos que cruzabamos en contra solo 3 fueron desde la ciudad Perito Moreno a El Chalten unos 600 km., el estado de la ruta es muy bueno fantastico comparada con la Carretera Austral, con decir que enganchabamos 5ta, pero como no nos andaba el velocimetro calculabamos la velocidad con el cuentavueltas a 2500 revoluciones deberiamos estar en 90km/h. El paisaje de la ruta es totalmente distinto a lo que se puede uno esperar, lo pueden ver en la foto, parece una llanura pampeana reseca y sin alambrado, claro si las estancias son enormes la carretera circula por medio de la estancia y solo se cruzan guardaganados cada tantos kilometros, cuando empezo ... read more
Fitz Roy
Panoramica Fitz Roy
Trekking


A glacier is just a big ice cube.....a really big ice cube. So big, in fact, that until you´ve actually seen one, they are impossible to comprehend. The Perito Moreno is 20 stories high. That´s very tall indeed. When 20 stories of ice come crashing down in front of you, it really is quite something. We arrived at the glacier and viewed from a few different lookout points before hopping on a boat and heading on to the glacier itself. After donning our crampons, we head out on the glacier. Walking on ice requires a certain nack. I reckon Herman Munster would be pretty good at it as it´s all about feet up-feet down. No ankle flex, just small laborious strides making sure your ice studs get as much coverage as possible. We came across fantastic ... read more
Perito Moreno - From A Balcony
Perito Moreno - Me
Perito Moreno - Anna


We had made the journey and decided ahead of time that it would be a quick trip to El Calafate, an overly-touristy town, built to function as an attrative and comfortable "holding tank" for the scores of visitors to Patagonia who want to take the day trip to Perito Moreno Glacier. The number of backpackers as compared with the hoards of people bussed in on luxury double-decker busses, did not even compare. I can scoff at these tourists only because I long for their reclining seats and lust after their air conditioning...does this justify bitterness? El Calafate is the perfect example of a boom town that was built up from almost nothing only a short time ago. When walking its streets, I secretly gushed inside with joy. There were people drinking coffee-REAL coffee, not instant- at ... read more
Blue
Griff and Mandy in front of the Glacier and Ice Field
Larger than life

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén March 2nd 2006

Day 23- Saturday 25th February The Facts: Disemabarking at 7am Ushuaia Flight to El Calafate The longer version After disembarking the rush was on to find someone to post all our new jackets and fleeces (supplied as part of the trip) back to Australia. The Correo (Post) was open on, but they only do International Parcels Mon-Fri during selected hours, even though the customs sectio which is needed for this was open! We could only locate a DHL Office (not outlet for postage), and OCA who delivered freight only within Argentina! So we managed to stuff all the goodies in our bags and board a flight to El Calafate. Now, here was another interesting Taxi Ride- 135km.hr, 4 people, 4 full backbacks and no seatbelts. The taxi could not go any faster if it tried! And ... read more
Hiking in Fitzroy
Crossing the river
Ice trekking

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén February 26th 2006

Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales Further details from our last entry (for other travelers) about transferring from Puerto Varas to Puerto Montt airport. From P.Varas, we caught a local minibus from Av. Del Salvador (in front of Cafè Real) to P.Montt bus terminal for $1000p each (about 30min trip, buses about every 15min). Then took the large ETM bus to the airport for $1200 each, buses every half hour and trip takes about 20min. We stayed one unexciting night in Punta Arenas on 14th Feb at Residential Roca (about one block south east of the main plaza on Av. Magalles) which was clean enough, if a little noisy, on the main street for $6000 each (with breakfast). Caught the Fernàndez bus to Puerto Natales for $4000 each (about 8 departures daily), takes less than 3 hours. ... read more
Cerro Torre
Lago Capri and Fitz Roy (Chaltèn)
Monte Fitz Roy (Chaltèn) and glacier Fitz Roy Este


Well hello again. I´m currently in El Calafate, after a 27+ hour bus ride from Bariloche to Rio Gallegos, and then a 4 hour ride to El Calafate. But it wasn´t terrible. It is decently easy to amuse yourself for that long if you know in advance it will be that long. Plus, I had Scott with me, and the benefit of meeting Hugh, an Irish guy, as well as Cody and Sean, two American kids from Seattle. They´ve all been great to talk to, and Scott and I are sharing a hostel with Hugh while the other boys camp. On the bus they showed four movies - one bad film with the Rock; an equally bad film that I did watch called Shriek if you know what I did last Friday the 13th; Analyze That; ... read more
Chunking
The bunny killers
Serenity

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén February 24th 2006

The good news were that the track to Fitzroy (highest mountain in Southern Patagonia) in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares wasn´t half as tough as Torres del Paine AND there wasn´t as much commercial shit (excuse my frensh - in Torres there were MINIMARKETS at some campgrounds! Come on, what´s that?? Wilderness???) AND it was only a 3 days track!! Which meant there was no need to carry a bag that weighs a tonne and a half! Great, I thought. When we got to El Chaltén, the access town, one of the park rangers inspired me to pack my stuff and leave for the track straight away (off the bus into the park) by saying that the weather changes all the time and since it rains most of the time we should get our sh...together and get ... read more
The peaks start to glow
The first rays of sunlight hitting Fitzroy & Co
Cerro Torre after sunset


there is really not an effective way to completely describe or capture the emansive and enormous barreling river of ice known as the perito moreno glacier. it commands respect. it's unbelievable big. imagine a tsunami's amount of fresh, chillingly cold, glacier water, thrusting with unparalleled power down from some of the highest and imposing peaks in the world...and then, with the snap of a finder, it gets suspended and froozen in its path - an invisible shield holding the glacier and all its power from crushing into the valley and lake below. that is the feeling when you look up at perito moreno. the thing is...it's not really stopped. anyone who spends more than 5 minutes jaw gazing at the perito moreno will have the opportunity to hear the huge thunder-like claps of the glacier moving. ... read more
a close up
view from the front
lago argentino

South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén February 16th 2006

After the hot, sunny (if rather windy) day on the 14th we awake the next day for our second day trekking in El Chalten to find the rain pouring down. Now back home, the Brits would look out the window, and be almost resigned to the fact that they were now going to spend the day getting wet. The Argentinians (and Italians!) have a slightly different outlook - they're not so keen on going out when it's raining, so the trek was cancelled, and we piled onto the bus for an outing to a lake instead. Desert Lake is about a 2 hour drive from town, along the typical gravel road, and the rain persists, and drizzles down most of the way there. We've all been given packed lunches - much the same as the previous ... read more
Sunrise
The scenery
Armadillos!




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