Well, enough of the cappucccinos, the beach by day, freshly grilled barramundi washed down with a decent chablis by night, urbane lifestyle of the Australian eastern coast cities - it was time to see the real Australia - the vast emptyness of the virtually uninhabitable middle. This tortured land, only pioneered by europeans 2 generations ago, is still frontier country, where men are men, and sheep are worried, and a bloke would never be seen dead drinking wine. Firstly, a flight to Alice Springs - the heart of the outback - and the furnace like heat (46 degrees) hit us like a brick when we got off the plane. The red dust all around gave the impression we were on mars, just with a bit of scrubby bushes lying around. The town itself is a huge
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