Getting tired. 11 months into our grand trip, and it's taking it's toll. Sights and places that previously would have had us ooohing and aaahing now barely get a second glance. Northern Thailand, Laos and Cambodia have left us templed out. The islands and beaches of Thailand have left us beached out - and Vietnam just left us exhausted with the bartering effort of it all. So, to remedy this malais, there was only one thing to do. With a quick reworking of our itinery, we jettisoned the over developed beach resorts of Bali, and headed off to the exotic shores of Sumatra. Sumatra, like Borneo, conjures up images of a vast, remote wilderness - of exotic creatures, dangers lurking from everywhere, smoking volcanoes, and primitive tribes running around in loin cloths and blowpipes. Well, actually,
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