First Impressions of Asia - and Oceana - Part 3: New Zealand

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After reviewing our last report upon leaving Asia, I realized we made a huge oversight in the information we presented on Cambodia. lt is said that the Kmer Rouge culture of Cambodia exhibits both the highs and lows of humanity. ln our last report we spoke of our trips to the Killing Fields and Toll Sloth, the High School-Turned-Torture-Chamber for five years in Phom Pehn, the capital city, during the Kmer Rouge reign of terror during the 70s. That was definely a glimpse into humanity at its worst. However,it is very misleading not to mention the temples of Angkor Wat when discussing the Cambodian / Kmer Rouge culture, because in visiting these temples one is given equally concrete evidence of humanity at its highest.I had no idea the ancient Kmer Rouge civilization was so advanced in every way - · always thought it was ancient Greece that won all the prizes for evidence of advanced ancient civilization. Gotta think that one through again, after visiting Angkor Wat.

Also important to note is that while in Asia for 3 months we witnessed no swearing, no graffiti, no road rage,and only two drunks in public. Then we arrived in Auckland on St. Patricks day. . . enough said. We spent two days in Auckland adjusting to the culture shock of re-entering western culture after four months in Asia, before moving to a paradise where we spent 9 days attending a silent Buddhist lnsight Meditation retreat. The location of the retreat was incredibly beautiful - situated in the Cormandel peninsula which is perhaps analagous to Vancouver lsland in that it seems to be where everyone who can afford to is going to retire. Beautiful landscape and weather. The facility, the food, and the management was equally excellent. All in all, the retreat was wonderful, but I won't begin to attempt any account of what it was like to be silent for nine days. All I will say is that we both enjoyed and appreciated the experience and are likely to do it again sometime. Just think about it for a second though: nine days of complete relaxation, without having to plan, prepare, or organize anything, not even your next conversation with whomever . . .

After the retreat on March 26th, we rented a camper van and toured the north island of New Zealand. The weather was good, sunny and moderate temperatures - more conducive to driving than sitting on beaches for long periods of time. So we drove, put on about 2500 km in 7 days, and covered most of the east and west coastlines. We also drove 100 km right to the very isolated northern tip of New Zealand so we could see where the Tasman sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. The two oceans actually were different colors - green and blue - which was quite a phenomena. The wave action where they met was pretty phenomenal as well. The last 20 km of this road was narrow, unpaved, and climbed over a high rocky cliff ridge with ocean drop offs on each side, all with 10 thousand mile an hour winds blowing us around. Meanwhile, we are there in our high top, skinny little camper van. Not too precarious. lt felt a lot like being at the end of the world, a feeling which was emphasized by the numerous distance signs on a pole in front of the lighthouse ( i.e. # of km to South Pole, Sydney, London, etc). The one I remember most was Vancouver : 12,043 km.

We arrived in Wellington on Saturday, April 1st. Wellington is very much New Zealand's answer to New Orleans. lt is the site of alarge Jaz conservatory, and there is music everywhere - jazz and blues being prominent, but all kinds of live music around in the numerous live venues as well as on the streets. So its an honor to be playing in this milieu. I have been a regular, playing weekly at a venue in the heart of the city, during the month that we have been here. I have enjoyed the experience immensely, and have learned much as well in the process. Not only playing in it, but living right in the middle of it as well. We are currently living in a huge condo right in the centre of the city - kind of like living right on Scarth Street mall. Wellington is a completely awesome city. Population similar to Regina, but looks and feels more like a small Vancouver. Small city with big city feel. Beautiful harbour. Houses on sides of hills and stuff. People walk everywhere. Most of the streets downtown have no cars or, if they do, they also have huge sidewalks so there are performers on the streets everywhere. A zillion bars, and a huge mix of people - many, many young folks. Even a San Francisco style cable car here.The expression "Windy Wellington" is definitely accurate - the wind whistles here almost regularly. I keep waiting for windows to rip off or something. But when you go outside, it is not freezing cold, as the Sask association would have us think, but quite warm.

During our time in New Zealand we also made a point of touring the South lsland, same format as before, in a camper van, and put on another 2500 km in our attempt to squeeze in as much as we possibly could of this beautiful country. lt is true what they say - the south island is more wild and rugged than the north. And for those of you who have heard all those rumours about New Zealand being a beautiful country, let me tell you this. They are not rumours. Of all the places we have visited in the last four months - Singapore, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, and lastly New Zealand - New Zealand wins all the beauty prizes. ln this relatively small island country you will find condensed beautiful samples of so many landscapes. The black beaches and rugged rocky coastlines of the South lsland reminded me of Hawaii. The rolling hills reminded me of Switzerland. Many times lwas reminded of the foothills of Alberta, and the interior of BC. And of course everywhere are the world famous ferns of New Zealand, which are the size of palm trees. So rainforests of Vancouver lsland come to mind. I had no idea that New Zealand has the largest and most varied collection of ferns in the world. Probably explains why the fern is their national symbol. Duh. Travelling sure does humble one.

Anyway, we are now set to depart for Australia . New Zealand, although very different from Asia, has been equally wonderful. The landscape, as I have already elaborated upon probably ad nauseum, is breathtakingly beautiful. But I cannot fail to mention that the people here are also invariably warm, friendly, very open and welcoming. A truly delightful place.

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Photos

Our Neighbourhood in Wellington
We literally lived right downtown. This was just out our door. Interesting experience.