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Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Flinders Ranges June 20th 2022

As promised, it was an early departure. Headed to the Arkaroola dirt turn-off just before Blinman and headed out on the 60 odd kms for Chambers Gorge. The dirt road throughout the day was reasonably smooth, windy and with many dips, but extremely enjoyable to drive. We encountered many wild goats, emus, birdlife, sheep and station homesteads. Mount Chambers or Wadna Yaldha dominated the landscape. It has a round mesa sitting on top of the range like a giant flat pimple. The Indigenous people say it sits like a wise old man, keeping a close watch over country … a country alive with ancestors and dreaming spirits. A spiritual place. The signs explain how this is an engraving site and give lots of interesting detail on how to interpret the meaning of these engravings. Most of ... read more
Road to Mt Chambers onto Arkaroola
The cost of pioneering

Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Adelaide June 19th 2022

We took four days to drive home.. We headed off from Longreach on Wednesday, leaving about 8 am It was a sunny day, but crisp and we had no problems driving along. We started to listen to an audio version of Dracula which Sam had lent us. Fletcher had never read it and it was at least 25 years since I had. We only stopped to change drivers, get petrol and have some lunch at Tambo, where we found Fanny Mae's cafe and enjoyed a pie each and a large cup of good coffee. . We drove into Cunnamulla about 3-30 and easily found the Billabong Hotel Motel where we had booked for the night. It took a while, though, to find Reception and a friendly lady took me in the "back"way. After we had booked ... read more
Back O Bourke Museum
Flethcer in the centre
Some of the history


DAY 11 WILPENA POUND Woke to a warmer morning due to cloud cover. A plunger coffee before poached eggs and avocado on toast, and it was all systems go. Well, as far can go for me as I rested my ‘severely’ injured groin whilst Jane went for one of the short walks. We met up for a famous, on-the-spot-Jane-made-lunch, which we devoured ravenously washed down with a little wine. Gratitude indeed. The drizzle had settled in and so had we for an half hour afternoon snooze. We finished the day by driving across to the Wilpena Resort and splashing out on dinner. More gratitude. The Xtrk is all set for departure tomorrow as we head to Arkaroola along a different route than previously planned.... read more
Poached eggs and avocado on toast


Day 10 EXPLORING THE FLINDERS RANGES Today we explored the Flinders Ranges by first finding the Bunyeroo Valley Drive along the Geological Trail. The track is windy and very undulating with numerous sharp dip creek courses and now is in-between well graded and rough. There are many bush-style campsites. We stopped at numerous places … Yanyanna Horse Yards and hut (both now unused), Razorback Lookout, giving views over the Ikara-Flinders Ranges NP, Bunyeroo Gorge through to the Brachina Gap into the Brachina Gorge which creates a striking appearance with its crumbling walls of shale, limestone and quartzite. There are scattered lone graves and ruins of shepherds huts, a reflection of hard times endured, north through the Aroona Valley to the Aroona Homestead and hut with magnificent scenery enjoyed. I remember seeing documentaries of the great artist, ... read more
Feeling the cold
Vista from Razorback Lookout


DAY 8 CEDUNA-WILPENA POUND (FLINDERS RANGES) “The Eagles” and “Dire Straits” helped us cross the Eyre Peninsula today. We did not sleep well. It resulted in early rising and early departure; however, the overnight dew was extremely heavy resulting in the canvas being totally wet. We wiped down what we could reach and knew that packing a wet canvas would have repercussions on arrival. Our hands were freezing from the wiping. The fog was thick and stayed with us for the first 200 odd kms until we reached Kimba to refuel ($2.25/L). Kimba is a rural service town on the Eyre Highway at the top of Eyre Peninsula in the state of South Australia. There is an 8-metre tall statue of a ga... read more
Kimba ... halfway across Australia ... largest galah symbol
Arrived


I exited the Xtrk at 6.45am on a very, very cold clear sky morning. I hadn’t walked 2m before 6 kookaburras sitting together 5m on a tree branch about 30m from me began their laugh, and laugh they did, waking anyone who was still asleep at that stage, for a full 2 minutes non-stop. It was sensational. I had heard kookaburras laugh before but not that many all at once for 2 minutes. Those brave enough to test the outside cold stumbled from their warm interiors to check out nature at its best … again. We conversed with a few fellow travellers and visited the inside of their caravans as we discussed the type of van. Jane is nearing the end with canvas! I quite fancy the eco-tourer outback type. Will do some research. We completed ... read more
On the trail
Enjoying the trail

Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Ceduna June 15th 2022

DAY 7 CEDUNA Overnight rain and a ‘fresh’ breeze had us wrapped in warm clothes until midmorning before a beautiful day with a few wispy clouds flowing through. We explored the town from its outskirts and within and came to the opinion (not verified), that Ceduna was a not-a-well-to-do place. The port at Thevenard had huge silos and gypsum exporting facilities. Being a coastal town, a sheltered, small boat harbour for the local fishing industry had been constructed too. Washing and drying was also completed today plus the topping up of a few fresh vege supplies … just couldn’t convince Jane to buy chocolate and such goodies. However, the highlight of the day came about when Pauline Cooper, who was following our trip from Geraldton, messaged to say that Ian Gummery’s brother John, and his wife ... read more
looking towards Port Thevenard
Gypsum being stockpiled
The berthing terminal

Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Eyre Peninsula June 14th 2022

DAY 4 BORDER VILLAGE-FOWLERS BAY Nature rewarded us with its magnificent ruggedness of the Great Australian Bight, sunshine and marine life, notably whales. The photos are spread over the 200kms of the mighty Bunds Cliffs which come to an end at Head of Bight. The morning was cold to begin with, however the day quickly warmed, and the cloud cleared. We stopped at all the lookouts with their solid walkways and viewing platforms. Head of Bight proved to be our highlight as whales were present. They didn’t breach but seeing their large forms as they moved gently through the water made the sight even more pleasurable. The eroding cliff face here demanded to be ‘looked at’. I love the physical geography aspect. We cut in off the Eyre Highway, taking a rough-at-times 26km track towards the ... read more
Still cold ... vista still superb
Magnificent cliff face ... Great Australian Bight

Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Ceduna June 14th 2022

DAY 6 FOWLERS BAY-CEDUNA After witnessing the sun rise over Fowlers Bay we departed for Penong, a small town a little further east. On the outskirts of Penong is a growing collection of rescued and restored windmills. It is here that the world’s biggest windmill, a Comet, christened Bruce’, stands. It had been used by the railways to pump water for the steam trains. We took the gravel and compressed, firm and smooth mud track to Port Le Hunte stopping at Lake Macdonnell on the way. During summer this lake is famous for its pinkness. However, we did enjoy the Blue Lake, sitting in front of a backdrop of pristine white sandhills. Cresting the one lane track along the cliff face we came to face below us Port Le Hunte, a sheltered little port with a ... read more
Sunrise over Fowlers Bay (final morning)
Penong. Windmill Museum.
The Comet Windmill (largest ever in Australia)

Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Eyre Peninsula June 14th 2022

DAY 5 FOWLERS BAY We must have been pretty tired … woke at 8.30am SA time (1.5hrs ahead of WA). Admittedly, there were a couple of ‘during-the-night’ awake periods … due … Jane says … me snoring. I never snore, however I do have a little head cold that probably contributed to the roar. We have a quiet, secluded, away from everyone camp spot. The wind is up and hasn’t eased at all. Initially cold, however it has warmed considerably. We felt the cold whilst walking the jetty and atop the massive, white sand dunes. Atop the windswept dunes we had an uninterrupted 360-degree view of the surroundings. Today was a slow, relax and rest day with cuppas and fruit cake that Jane had made prior to our trip. As a matter of fact, we are ... read more
Fowlers Bay Jetty
Seaweed foreshore
All mine.




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