I lived in West Jerusalem for the past three weeks and visited the Old City at least a dozen times; yet, there’s so much I still need to see! Jerusalem is many things—beautiful, frustrating, magical, mysterious, tense—but one thing that it’s not, is dull. I can walk around the city every day and still be overwhelmed by its labyrinth-like alleys (which, by the way, rarely have signs). I tried finding a place in East Jerusalem but became mesmerized by the Palestinian town of Ramallah before I could. Now I have to go through the gruesome Qalandia checkpoint every time I travel between Ramallah and Jerusalem—a 10-mile distance that can take over an hour (and hoursss if it’s Friday) to cross. Going from Israel into the occupied territories is easy, but the other way around can take
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